The Stropping Wheel and the Application of Honing Paste

[SparkyLB]

Hello all. 

I've just dispensed approximately 2/3 of the oil included to my leather wheel and it looks very evenly distributed. 

I have a choice to add the paste now and begin working it in, or to let the oil impregnate for a day or two first.  Is anyone aware of a preferred method?  I won't hazard a guess as to whether it makes a difference.  I don't know either way.  The oil will either aid in the absorption of the paste, or will have no bearing. 

It's not in the literature, the included DVD, and I've searched for an answer on the site. 

I know what to do once I put it on (work it in with a tool) but does it avail one to allow the leather to become supple and moisturized before adding the honing compound?

Thanks, all. 

[Ken S]

Sparky,

I don't think it really matters. Most of the videos done by Tormek I have seen show the compound applied just after the initial oil. Although this may possible be done to shorten the video time, I suspect it is just done that way.
We frequently receive questions about the "correct" oil to use. Over the years, I have broken in perhaps half a dozen leather honing wheels. I have used mineral oil from the pharmacy (a bottle will last several generations); 3 in 1 or similar oil; and the tube of Tormek oil on my T8. The Tormek oil is convenient, although I couldn't tell which wheels received which oil. My point is that the leather wheels are not fussy.

Ken

[SparkyLB]

Thanks, Ken.  I honestly don't know if the supplied Tormek oil is mineral oil or light machine oil, in the US there does not seem to exist a written distinction between the two. 

My takeaway is that for purposes regarding the Tormek, the oil makes the leather supple, which allows better absorption of the honing paste.  When I run out of the last third of the supplied oil, I'll use the mineral oil I mix with beeswax to treat my cutting boards.  I have several bottles of the stuff. 

My uneducated guess, is that (if it made any difference at all), it's probably more beneficial to add the paste soon after oil application rather than days after.  In my case, I'm not going to use the machine until I've read the handbook a couple of times.  I've read it once, and it's quite nuanced.  Alpha and beta, edge angle and blade angle are not terms I was familiar with before.   Perhaps not rocket science, but when I use this machine the first time, I will be using it right and would like to only move forward. 

My plan was to treat the leather, prepare the strop, so when I am ready to use the machine it's ready for me. 

People on this site seem very helpful, knowledgeable and humble.  My kinda folks! 

[Naf]

One well-educated man's opinion (during a conversation over few drinks/ cigars)...



Short answer:
Use what provided by Tormek, or white mineral oil as substitute, if necessary.


Explanation:
To most "mere mortals", differences between a "light machine oil" and white mineral oil are subtle. "Light machine oil" is more a label for category of variety of lubricants while white mineral oil is not (it is what it is, more a product for use generally not intended as a lubricant, though it share varying degrees of lubrication qualities/ properties). While they usually have different densities & chemistries, and can, in cases, both be by products of petroleum distallation processes, they also could each be formulated, synthetically, I assume(with different chemistries, as needed, based on desired use cases.) Typically, a white mineral oil will likely "dry out" faster than a light machine oil, which more suited for machine use. However, not mistake this, simply cause Tormek is a machine. Point is, in this case of honing wheel preparation, all possible differences between the two much more (I not know word for this, want say irrelevant, but want imply more like "laws diminishing returns" so will instead use these words) less important. Then his attention drifted bit... he suddenly seem much more interested in woman nearby... and my vision understood.


My opinion:  Base on my understanding of his statements, which I very carefully paraphrase above... if he correct, then seem obvious to... have less time between application of white mineral oil and compound than you could between light machine oil and compound.  Other thought is... this got be less scientific. Probably more matter of how much time someone have demonstrate this process or how much patience others have waiting for oil do it job to leather. Of course, then seems to become: Did I wait long enough? Did I wait too long? Did it get fully absorb? Did it dry out?  Think it becomes too subjective. All of this one reason I chose start with composite honing wheel, instead of old "tried and true".


Source: Family member FBI agent, after being chemist for Sunoco, after being pharmacist. Sorry, not able divulge any more than that.

[Ken S]

Please note: these thoughts are mine and not necessarily endorsed by Tormek.

I think including the small tube of mineral oil with new Tormeks makes a lot of sense on several levels.

It reinforces the importance of the initial oiling of the leather wheel. A number of years ago, part of the Tormek community read the ingredients of the Tormek PA-70 honing compound, saw that it contained oil, and concluded that initial oiling of the leather wheel was redundant. Clever them. This thinking even briefly infiltrated some of the Tormek marketing videos. It is easy to spot; honing produces black flakes. Fortunately this theoretical correctness was short lived. Including a tube of this "redundant" oil has eliminated the black flakes.

The 1.5 ounce tube provides the desired amount to oil the leather wheel and the LA-120 shaped honing wheels. It sets limits, enough and not too much.

It eliminates the question of Is this the right oil for the task?.It is chosen by Tormek, who has been doing wet sharpening for decades.

It is food safe. I don't think this is really an issue. Doesn't everyone wash a new or just sharpened knife before using it? Be that as it may, I am sure the food safe standard helps the legal department sleep more easily.

If I ever have to replace one of my leather honing wheels, I will just use the tube of oil included. If no tube is included, I will use 3in1 "sewing machine oil" or mineral, whichever is more convenient followed by honing compound.
My new honing wheel will soon turn black, like my other honing wheels.

Ken

[SparkyLB]

Again, thank you, Ken.  I just re-read my last post, and it's rife with lack of clarity.  I mean in no way to defend myself here, I'm only trying to clarify and reinforce the purpose of my OP. 

My main points were:

a.  I didn't know what type of oil Tormek supplied in that tube.  This you answered.  Thank you. 
b.  I was not suggesting I would be putting beeswax on the leather, I was saying I have mineral oil on hand (and lots of it) because I mix it with beeswax to condition my cutting boards.
c.  After observing that the leather looked quite dry the morning after application, I realized moving forward would involve continued application of oil to keep the leather supple.  Now that I know it is mineral oil, I'm happy that this is what I already have.  I am not a reinvent the wheel type of guy.  If Tormek supplies the machine with mineral oil, far be it from me to suggest I know better than them.
d.  I completely agree about the food-safe statement you made.  I go from strop to wash religiously.  Not being one to eat metal, I think it's better this way. 

Lastly, the purpose of this thread was to poke the community and see if anyone had any opinions on oiling then immediately applying the compound, or oiling, waiting and THEN applying the compound. 

[Naf]

Poked.  I not want drink metal either. I already had consider proper system for ensuring I not drink from one of many quart/2 litter / gallon milk jug/ bottles, once I manage lift a diamond wheel onto a sliding shaft and have start saving the water with additive in a couple of them. I not complain; since carrying all water help regain lost muscle arms. And I not ask T for pretty stainless steel gallon jugs, because then I'd have consider buying... at least 1... even after running minimum hundred feet hose after the yard thaws in few months... that DEFINITELY gonna happen.  Thank you for poking.