What to do after sharpening on the Tormek

[Segovia123]

Hi All

I got my T4 late last year and over a period of time I managed to put a nice new edge on all my Chisels and Plane Blades, I even managed to get a radiused edge on some of my plane blades and combined with a DVD lesson with David Charlesworth I am enjoying the art of planing for the first time in my life. In fact, if I get bored and a bit down I just plane a bit of scrap wood for half an hour!

Anyway back to the question, how do you maintain the edge on your plane blades and chisels? I am assuming it's in a diamond stone or Waterstone, do you use freehand or with a honing guide. Any advice welcome

J   

[Ken S]

J,

I used oil stones for a long time. Then I switched to Norton waterstones for several years. While I still have and like both, I have not used either since I bought my first Tormek in 2009.

I normally just go back to the SG, graded coarse, then fine. Just like the initial sharpening, I finish up with the leather honing wheel and PA-70 honing compound. It isn't fancy, but it has proven to work well.

People get hung up on grit numbers. I have read several grit numbers for PA-70. It becomes finer grit with use. I don't think anyone really knows how fine it really is, or that it really matters. Finish each stage with some light pressure.

You will soon get the hang of it.
Keep up the good work!

Ken

[cbwx34]

...
Anyway back to the question, how do you maintain the edge on your plane blades and chisels? I am assuming it's in a diamond stone or Waterstone, do you use freehand or with a honing guide. Any advice welcome

J

If by "maintain" you mean keep it sharp, there's no one or right way... but there's no reason you can't use the honing wheel on the Tormek to maintain the edge for quite a while.  When that no longer works, a quick touch-up on the stone graded fine, to "refresh" the edge.  When that fails (or the edge gets damaged or some other reason), then back to coarse to set a new edge.

No need to switch to another method or device... unless you have a reason to do so... for example you don't have ready access to using the Tormek, or you find a quicker method (for example, I'll maintain my kitchen knives on a ceramic rod, just 'cause it's quick and easy), etc.  Plus, when you switch to another method, you have a new set of issues to deal with, for example, matching the methods.

[John_B]

I am no expert on planer blades but I wonder if periodically using a knife steel or ceramic rod would recondition the cutting edge. I too use the honing wheel periodically on knife edges to restore them between full sharpenings.

[Segovia123]

J,

I used oil stones for a long time. Then I switched to Norton waterstones for several years. While I still have and like both, I have not used either since I bought my first Tormek in 2009.

I normally just go back to the SG, graded coarse, then fine. Just like the initial sharpening, I finish up with the leather honing wheel and PA-70 honing compound. It isn't fancy, but it has proven to work well.

People get hung up on grit numbers. I have read several grit numbers for PA-70. It becomes finer grit with use. I don't think anyone really knows how fine it really is, or that it really matters. Finish each stage with some light pressure.

That did cross my mind but thought getting the same angle again will take some trial and error and would probably need up regrinding the bevel.

You will soon get the hang of it.
Keep up the good work!

Ken