Newbie question about WM 200

[Stickan]

cb,
The knife you presented will likely have issues since it looks like the angle-setter doesn't fit on the primary grind surface. The design of the blade, with a thick back/spine, with a relatively small blade and with a, what it looks like, a hollow-grind primary bevel before the secondary bevel makes it difficult to use the WM-200.

What is important when sharpening a knife like this is to sharpen at the same edge angle every time once you have created an angle that is suitable for the use of it. And it is easy to repeat that angle with the marker method.

I will say it again, the WM-200 works on most common blades, I agree that it doesn't work on 100% of all the thousands of blades that are out there. There is no quick-fix to compensate for all of the knife blade designs in the world.
But also have in mind that the design of the WM-200 is for most common edge tools that we can sharpen with the system.

Best,
Stig

[cbwx34]

cb,
The knife you presented will likely have issues since it looks like the angle-setter doesn't fit on the primary grind surface. The design of the blade, with a thick back/spine, with a relatively small blade and with a, what it looks like, a hollow-grind primary bevel before the secondary bevel makes it difficult to use the WM-200.

What is important when sharpening a knife like this is to sharpen at the same edge angle every time once you have created an angle that is suitable for the use of it. And it is easy to repeat that angle with the marker method.

I will say it again, the WM-200 works on most common blades, I agree that it doesn't work on 100% of all the thousands of blades that are out there. There is no quick-fix to compensate for all of the knife blade designs in the world.
But also have in mind that the design of the WM-200 is for most common edge tools that we can sharpen with the system.

Best,
Stig

Fair enough. 


I'll give you my answer.... if a person wants to use, or only has, the WM-200.   

(Sorry picture is small to meet the file size requirement).


If the knife is ground the same on both sides, you can do this...

1.  Find a flat surface.  Loosen the angle side knob and lay the AngleMaster on the surface as shown.  (The wheel side should be tight, the setting doesn't matter).  Record the measurement (in this case 19°).

2. Lay the knife on the surface with the area of the knife you're measuring to, flat on the surface.
3. Don't use the flat portion of the blade, if there is one.

4.  Now lay the AngleMaster on the bevel (keeping the angle knob loose), and record this measurement (in this case 33°).

5.  Subtract the 2 numbers 33-19=14, and divide by 2 = 7°.  Add this number to the AngleMaster setting... so if you want the knife sharpened at 20° set the AngleMaster at 27°.

I'd say, you'll be within +- a degree.  (I did the math on this one with a "triangle calculator"... the knife is 3.1mm thick and the side is 11.95mm, which came out to 14.9°, or about 7.5°per side).

(Sounds complicated, but the math most can do in their head, and it's really pretty easy). 
(Ken will be along to talk about targets, but this is easier IMO).

Obviously, there's other ways... I'm sticking with the WM-200 only here.

[Stickan]

Cb,
thanks for sharing this, some will find it useful for sure.
Another solution is to remove material on the angle setter, not on the side that touches the stone. By shortening down the length of the angle setter that touches the tool, it gives better access to more hollow-grinded primary bevels. I would not recommend that to other than users with these specific blades since it makes it more difficult to find the angle on some woodworking tools with a long flat surface.

Best,
Stig

[John_B]

I have found that honing at an angle of 1.5° to 2° greater than the sharpening angle (for most steels) has been a key factor in taking the sharpness of the knives I do to the next level. While restoring the factory edge is possible freehand I have found that guided honing using the jig takes it to another level.

[RickKrung]

I have found that honing at an angle of 1.5° to 2° greater than the sharpening angle (for most steels) has been a key factor in taking the sharpness of the knives I do to the next level. While restoring the factory edge is possible freehand I have found that guided honing using the jig takes it to another level.

I definitely agree. 

I have been following Knife Grinder's process for this sort of angle controlled honing.  I find it more difficult with the leather honing wheel, but doable.  I prefer the SJ stone and a rock hard felt wheel on the Tormek.  In addition, I use an angle barely greater than the apex grinding one for harder steels. 

Rick

[Sean Maggi]

cb,
The knife you presented will likely have issues since it looks like the angle-setter doesn't fit on the primary grind surface. The design of the blade, with a thick back/spine, with a relatively small blade and with a, what it looks like, a hollow-grind primary bevel before the secondary bevel makes it difficult to use the WM-200.

What is important when sharpening a knife like this is to sharpen at the same edge angle every time once you have created an angle that is suitable for the use of it. And it is easy to repeat that angle with the marker method.

I will say it again, the WM-200 works on most common blades, I agree that it doesn't work on 100% of all the thousands of blades that are out there. There is no quick-fix to compensate for all of the knife blade designs in the world.
But also have in mind that the design of the WM-200 is for most common edge tools that we can sharpen with the system.

Best,
Stig

Fair enough. 


I'll give you my answer.... if a person wants to use, or only has, the WM-200.   

(Sorry picture is small to meet the file size requirement).


If the knife is ground the same on both sides, you can do this...

1.  Find a flat surface.  Loosen the angle side knob and lay the AngleMaster on the surface as shown.  (The wheel side should be tight, the setting doesn't matter).  Record the measurement (in this case 19°).

2. Lay the knife on the surface with the area of the knife you're measuring to, flat on the surface.
3. Don't use the flat portion of the blade, if there is one.

4.  Now lay the AngleMaster on the bevel (keeping the angle knob loose), and record this measurement (in this case 33°).

5.  Subtract the 2 numbers 33-19=14, and divide by 2 = 7°.  Add this number to the AngleMaster setting... so if you want the knife sharpened at 20° set the AngleMaster at 27°.

I'd say, you'll be within +- a degree.  (I did the math on this one with a "triangle calculator"... the knife is 3.1mm thick and the side is 11.95mm, which came out to 14.9°, or about 7.5°per side).

(Sounds complicated, but the math most can do in their head, and it's really pretty easy). 
(Ken will be along to talk about targets, but this is easier IMO).

Obviously, there's other ways... I'm sticking with the WM-200 only here.

You just blew my mind