Worth restoring this old model?

[Curval]

I scanned the thread to see if you mentioned the diameter of your grinding wheel but didn't find it, just mention that barely dips in the water.  I have never seen in person anything but the current T8, but think I've read that some of the older models don't have the mechanism to raise the water trough.  If that is true, perhaps yours is one and therefore, you may need to lift it with supports to get the water level in the trough up to the stone.  I could be way on this about the lack of the lifting mechanism, but at the very least, I have no problem filling the trough enough and raising it to fully wet an 8" traditional grinding wheel, so I suspect you should be able to with your stone, if it has enough material.  If not, replacing it is a must, not a maybe, IMHO.

The wheel is an SG-250 but I believe it saw a lot of usage with the original owner and also got left in water a long time, the result is it's worn down a lot and what is left is uneven. This particular model does not have the ability to raise the water trough built in but I could just stuck something underneath it if I was so inclined. I have started using the truing tool on this wheel as I've got nothing to lose, the surface is coming out nicely now the flecks of rust are being removed.

Whilst I do intend to get a honing wheel it is lower down on my list of priorities since that's something I can do with the assorted strops I already have.

Thank you to everyone for the suggestions. In this age of built-in obsolescence it's refreshing to see continued support for an old product line.

[RichColvin]

I do just what you recommend on my T-2000.  I put the water trough atop on ³/₄ inch thick plywood which is screwed to a 2x4. This sets the water trough about 2 ¹/₂ inches (64 mm) above the base, which is about ¹/₂ inches (14 mm) higher than if the trough were hung normally on the machine's tabs.

There is a picture here:  http://sharpeninghandbook.info/Grindstones-StoneLife.html.


Rich