a better spacer

[Ken S]

The plastic spacer which holds the shaft in place without the grinding wheel in place is an important, but easily misplaced Tormek part. I have made serviceable replacements out of plastic water pipe and electrical conduit. I have noticed that Sharpco uses very nice metal spacers in his well done videos. I have recently started using a product which works very well. D-Way CBN wheels all have a one inch bore. The wheels are adapted to different size bores by using the machined steel reducing bushings also sold by D-Way. These bushings are substantial and well machined. They are accurately sized and bored to provide an accurate fit. They provide plenty of bearing surface to get a snug fit with the EZYlock. I was pleasantly surprised to realize that the one size works with both the T4 and T8. They can also be used with any wheel with a one inch bore, such as the Norton 3X, felt or paper, (I have not used paper wheels.)

For anyone wanting to use a CBN wheel with both a Tormek (wet or dry) and a dry grinder, a second reducing bushing with a 5/8" bore does the trick. Caution: these bushings are not made of stainless steel and must be used with an anti corrosion solution like Honerite Gold if used wet.

For $13 US, I think they are quite a deal. Here is a link:

https://d-waytools.com/cbn-grinding-wheels/bushing-kits-for-cbn-grinding-wheels/

Ken

[John_B]

Good to know a source for these bushings.

I think I may make a spare just to have one on hand.

[Ken S]

John,

I realized how important the spacer is when I picked up my Tormek, forgetting that I had not placed the spacer when I removed the grinding wheel. The shaft and leather honing wheel started to slide. I was fortunate. I decided that was the day to regrease the bushings. It made a believer out of me.

I presently have three D-Way bushings, one for each of my three D-Way CBN wheels. I plan to order several specers. I am presently using one with my 8" felt wheel, and one as a spacer.

I plan to order several more.

Ken

[jobewan]

Hey Guys,

Not to be a complete noob, but I don't understand what spacer you are refering to.  I have all CBN wheels, and obviously change them all regularly.  I am aware of the spacer you are discussing, at least the Tormek version that came on the unit.  I have no idea where mine is.  What is the purpose and why is it important?  Is it that my wheels are all the same size as the Tormek shaft (I bought all Tormek CBN wheels...) and don't have an issue that you mau have?   Call me confused. 

I really appreciate any help you can throw my way.

Please stay safe guys.

Thanks

Joe

[RichColvin]

Joe,

This goes where the grindstone is placed.  You use it when you need to transport the Tormek as they advise not transporting it with the grindstone attached.  There are a myriad of reasons, but the primary two are that

• the shaft can get bent by the weight of the grindstone if the Tormek bounces around in your vehicle, and
• the grindstone can get damaged (or even broken).

Putting this spacer on the shaft after the grindstone is removed keeps the shaft in the right position.

Note :  I made one with a scrap piece of wood on my lathe.  The outside diameter is not critical, and the inside can be drilled using a 12mm drill bit.  If you don't have a 12mm drill bit, you can use a 1/2 inch one. 

The 12 mm bit is 0.472 inches, whilst the 1/2 inch is of course 0.500 inches (or 12.7 mm) — though these are approximations anyway, but that is a much longer discussion.  More importantly, that extra 0.03 inches / 0.7 mm doesn't really matter for this purpose.  In fact, it may be a better option as, if the wood gets wet and swells up, it will still fit onto the shaft.

What does matter is protecting your machine.  This piece is really cheap vs. the potential for damaging your spindle.  A new shaft is about $65-70.  And a new 250mm grindstone is $190 for the SG, and more if you have to replace a different one.

Hope that helps.

Kind regards,
Rich

[Ken S]

Joe,

Good questions. If you frequently change grinding wheels, as you state that you do, but never move your Tormek, you really don't need the spacer. In my case, I move my Tormeks frequently. Most of these moves are around my shop. Some involve moving in and out of my car. Rich is following Jeff Farris' recommendation of removing the grinding wheel before transportation. (Jeff did this for years before the EZYlock!) I agree with Rich that this is good practice, however, the main reason that I do this is because at seventy, I no longer have the strength I had in younger days. Without the grinding wheel, the Tormek's weight is about half.

I also prefer to remove my grinding wheel after the session. I realize this is probably unnecessary; I just feel it helps my absorbent wheels and the steel bushings of my CBN wheels dry more quickly.

Rich,
I know spacers can be easily made with a lathe or drill press at no cost, if one already has these tools. I have made numerous spacers and reducing bushings out of plastic pipe with my miter saw and drill press. Lacking a 12mm drill bit, a 31/64" bit with a bit of wobble to enlarge the hole does an adequate job. I was thinking of total cost. $13 seems a lot lower to me than having to buy a drill press or lathe. I think many of our members are knife only people.

Ken

[cbwx34]

Hey Guys,

Not to be a complete noob, but I don't understand what spacer you are refering to.  I have all CBN wheels, and obviously change them all regularly.  I am aware of the spacer you are discussing, at least the Tormek version that came on the unit.  I have no idea where mine is.  What is the purpose and why is it important?  Is it that my wheels are all the same size as the Tormek shaft (I bought all Tormek CBN wheels...) and don't have an issue that you mau have?   Call me confused. 
...

The spacer is also used if you want to remove the grinding wheel for honing longer knives on the leather wheel (if you do it using a jig).

See it here (at 6:00)...  https://youtu.be/meYCCX4iRUM?t=360