A few questions from a new Tormek user

[mstocker]

Hi Folks! I'm a new Tormek T-4 user and have a few questions. I've been reading dozens of forum posts over the last few weeks and there is so much information, it's almost a little overwhelming. That said, it's been very helpful overall so thanks to everyone who responds regularly on here and provides such useful information.

As for my questions, first, concerning the leather honing wheel, how is one to maintain it properly and restore one that is dried out? I followed the guidance for oiling it and applying the honing compound. The very next day, the surface of the wheel was dry and crusty. I'm trying to figure out what I did wrong, how to fix it, and how to maintain it moving forward. I thought about just taking a file to it to remove the dried out material and starting over but wasn't sure if there was an easier or more effective way.

Second, my primary use for the machine will be to sharpen knives and maybe some other edge tools. I've noticed my bevels can be pretty uneven at times, especially at the heel and tip of the blade. I suspect it's mostly my learning a new skill and not quite having a smooth action yet but was curious if anyone had any general tips I should follow.

Finally, regarding "to pivot or not to pivot," I've been thinking about how to modify the knife jig to better allow pivoting when sharpening curved knives. I particularly like the pin collar implementation but don't have the means or skill to fabricate one. I thought about just cutting on either side of the plastic adjustable stop collar with a hacksaw, effectively eliminating the material that gets in the way of a pivoting motion. Besides the fact that it will likely not be very pretty, do you see any inherent issues with this idea? Do you think it will be effective?

Apologies for the long winded post. Thank you in advance for any help!

[jeffs55]

There is a forum user that has these items in stock to help you in your pivoting. http://knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop.htm Scroll down the page till you see "pin pivot collar" but it is very pricey for what it is. As for the honing wheel drying out. Don't be concerned as it will do that and will still hone your edges. If it bothers you, you might add only a smidgen of oil to the wheel. Smidgen = a few regularly spaced drops and allow them to soak into the wheel naturally spreading or you can spread with your fingers. Under no circumstances should you oil too heavily. As for an even grind someone else needs to address that.

[cbwx34]

Hi Folks! I'm a new Tormek T-4 user and have a few questions. I've been reading dozens of forum posts over the last few weeks and there is so much information, it's almost a little overwhelming. That said, it's been very helpful overall so thanks to everyone who responds regularly on here and provides such useful information.

As for my questions, first, concerning the leather honing wheel, how is one to maintain it properly and restore one that is dried out? I followed the guidance for oiling it and applying the honing compound. The very next day, the surface of the wheel was dry and crusty. I'm trying to figure out what I did wrong, how to fix it, and how to maintain it moving forward. I thought about just taking a file to it to remove the dried out material and starting over but wasn't sure if there was an easier or more effective way.

Second, my primary use for the machine will be to sharpen knives and maybe some other edge tools. I've noticed my bevels can be pretty uneven at times, especially at the heel and tip of the blade. I suspect it's mostly my learning a new skill and not quite having a smooth action yet but was curious if anyone had any general tips I should follow.

Finally, regarding "to pivot or not to pivot," I've been thinking about how to modify the knife jig to better allow pivoting when sharpening curved knives. I particularly like the pin collar implementation but don't have the means or skill to fabricate one. I thought about just cutting on either side of the plastic adjustable stop collar with a hacksaw, effectively eliminating the material that gets in the way of a pivoting motion. Besides the fact that it will likely not be very pretty, do you see any inherent issues with this idea? Do you think it will be effective?

Apologies for the long winded post. Thank you in advance for any help!

My guess on the honing wheel... you probably used a bit too much compound.  Like jeffs55 said... don't worry... some excess will come off, but it will still work.

Practice will take care of the "uneven" issue.  If you're getting bevels that are too wide/narrow at the belly/tip area... try moving the clamp closer or farther away, and notice the changes.  Uneven at the heel is usually from spending too much time there, or sharpening on the part of the choil that "widens out", (if that makes sense).

Cutting the collar off the Stop Collar was one of the earlier ways, and it works fine. (There should be examples in the thread you referenced, I did it here).  You can also get a Drill Stop Collar and use that, if you want to keep your Stop Collar in one piece.  Here's one for reference:  https://www.mcmaster.com/9506t6
... and a picture...



... the main objective is to reduce the "sides" so you can pivot easier.

You can also set the knife to pivot on the edge of the current stop collar, following the instructions in this thread:

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2654.0

... if you don't want to cut the collar.

[Elden]

More ideas:

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3802.msg25365#msg25365

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3957.msg26950#msg26950

[RickKrung]

...snip...
I thought about just cutting on either side of the plastic adjustable stop collar with a hacksaw, effectively eliminating the material that gets in the way of a pivoting motion. Besides the fact that it will likely not be very pretty, do you see any inherent issues with this idea? Do you think it will be effective?

Apologies for the long winded post. Thank you in advance for any help!

Michael,

I think slicing off the sides of the stock adjustable collar would work, up to a point.  Yes, it probably would be ugly, but I wouldn't let that stop me.  I have orders several spares in the past and modified them.  The first mod was to turn the collar off, leaving just the barrel.  Like the photo posted here, although this is not mine and I don't recall who's it is.  It is in one of the threads on this topic, somewhere.


The issue I see with what you suggest is that it will significantly constrain the adjustability of the stop.  You will only be able to change the position of the stop on the jig shaft in 180º increments, which will limit the projections you have available.  This could be dealt with to a certain extent, but I would not try doing it that way, IIWM. 

I think the methods shown in the links Elden posted are very good alternatives and should be doable with anyone with modest fabrication skills.

The Pin Pivot Collar (PPC) has been available most recently in the past from Knife Grinders, but I don't see it on their web site currently.  I know they have been waiting to have another production run made. 

Also, please do not apologize for the length of your post.  Many here do it, especially myself. 

Rick

[cbwx34]

The issue I see with what you suggest is that it will significantly constrain the adjustability of the stop.  You will only be able to change the position of the stop on the jig shaft in 180º increments, which will limit the projections you have available.  This could be dealt with to a certain extent, but I would not try doing it that way, IIWM. 

True... although I really never move the Stop... especially when I put the "PPC" on.

(p.s. I wouldn't round the sides like shown in the picture... it works, but you definitely have to pay attention to it).

[RickKrung]

...snip...
(p.s. I wouldn't round the sides like shown in the picture... it works, but you definitely have to pay attention to it).

I agree, do not round the corners.  After doing a mod like this, I would not do it again.  I found it too difficult to control because the surface that bears on the USB is too small and slips up over the top too easily.  I think this is because the collar diameter is no larger than or barely larger than the diameter of the USB bar.

If I were not going to, or not able to make a proper "pivot" stop, I would just use the drill collar, as CB posted.  They are know as clamping shaft collars also.  Get the 12mm type.  Best to use one that has a screw that clamps/tightens the clamp around the shaft.  The URL here is to McMaster-Carr, but I found these at one of the major chain hardware stores (ACE, True Value or Do It Best).  The stainless steel ones from MM-C are what I used in the "Pin Pivot Collar".
https://www.mcmaster.com/shaft-collars

But if all you can find is one with a set screw, flatten the tip of the set screw.  Most set screws are "cupped", meaning they have sharp edges in a circular "point" (cavity in the middle) that will cut into the shaft and mar it.  File off that circular sharp perimeter so the set screw clamps with a flattened surface.  The link below is what I use in another tool that I sell.  I do not recall seeing these in the major chain hardware stores.  Filing off the "cups" in standard set screws works well enough. 

Non-maring set screws. https://www.mcmaster.com/socket-set-screws

Rick

[mstocker]

Ah great information here! I will continue to practice and work on not spending too much time on the heel so thanks for the advice cbwx34. I did go ahead and cut off the sides of a collar just to try it. It actually works decently well but I am going to try a drill stop collar too to compare. Thanks Rick and cbwx34 for the advice on this! Also thanks for the links Elden. Even more good ideas there and now I'm wondering about self-centering jigs lol.

[RichColvin]

I've cataloged a number of options here:

http://sharpeninghandbook.info/indexJigs.html#PivotJig

Good luck.

Kind regards,
Rich

[mstocker]

Thanks Rich! Your site is awesome.

[RichColvin]

Thank you!