Seeking Tanto Blades Tips and Tricks

[Stephen M]

Good Morning All!

First off, let me thank you for letting me join the "cool kids club"!  I've had my Tormek T-8 for 5 days now and I have to say, it is an incredible machine!  However, after reading a number of posts I understand that as great as it is, it has limitations.  I haven't really seen any videos about sharpening tanto style blades.  Does anyone have recommendations for setup?  Or any tips and tricks?  Or would it be better not to do those. 
Second, when sharpening flat blade knives I am experiencing a unique issue.  After working the blade on the stone, the middle of the blade appears to curve in slightly (picture attached).  Is this a technique issue?  What is the best way to prevent this from happening again?
Lastly, when discussing blade length, I own a Spyderco Endura 4 with a half serrated blade (picture link below).  The total blade length is listed a 3.75".  When sharpening a knife like this, would it be best to use the small knife jig (SVM-00)?

https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details/C10BBK/Endura-reg-4-FRN-Black-Black-Blade/333

Thank you so much for your suggestions!  I really appreciate your help and suggestions!

-Stephen M

[John_B]

Here is a great video on sharpening a Tanto style knife on the Tormek.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvlWF_3fcTE&feature=youtu.be

Try search there are a lot of discussions on this subject.

[Ken S]

Second, when sharpening flat blade knives I am experiencing a unique issue.  After working the blade on the stone, the middle of the blade appears to curve in slightly (picture attached).  Is this a technique issue?  What is the best way to prevent this from happening again?

-Stephen M

Welcome to the forum, Stephen. As it happens, I was talking with Stig about this very issue on Saturday. His solution is varying the finger pressure on the blade while sharpening. The tip is sharpened by lifting the blade slightly (not pivoting). Finger pressure is very light in the middle section of the blade. Finger pressure is increased at the bottom of the blade. This helps to preserve the curve of the blade.

It is easy to forget the importance of finger pressure changes, even with jigs.

Ken

[Stephen M]

Thank you so much for the quick replies!

You guys are the best!

-Stephen

[cbwx34]

Good Morning All!

First off, let me thank you for letting me join the "cool kids club"!  I've had my Tormek T-8 for 5 days now and I have to say, it is an incredible machine!  However, after reading a number of posts I understand that as great as it is, it has limitations.  I haven't really seen any videos about sharpening tanto style blades.  Does anyone have recommendations for setup?  Or any tips and tricks?  Or would it be better not to do those. 
Second, when sharpening flat blade knives I am experiencing a unique issue.  After working the blade on the stone, the middle of the blade appears to curve in slightly (picture attached).  Is this a technique issue?  What is the best way to prevent this from happening again?
Lastly, when discussing blade length, I own a Spyderco Endura 4 with a half serrated blade (picture link below).  The total blade length is listed a 3.75".  When sharpening a knife like this, would it be best to use the small knife jig (SVM-00)?

https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details/C10BBK/Endura-reg-4-FRN-Black-Black-Blade/333

Thank you so much for your suggestions!  I really appreciate your help and suggestions!

-Stephen M

It can be more than finger pressure... here's a thread that talks about it in more detail... Middle Overgrinding Problem.  Part of the problem may be the heel/choil area affecting how the wheel contacts the edge.  Another could be if you're going back and forth, you can grind the middle section more.

Typical tanto blades, as you're probably aware, need to be ground as two separate blades... making sure you don't rotate (or handle lift) between to the two sections.  You can clamp each section separately and treat it like two separate knives, setting the angle for each section... I like to try and clamp it so I don't have to reclamp for each section, like so...



... but still grind each section separately.  The trade off is, you have to pay attention to keep the blade parallel to the stone... as you can see in the picture, you can't use the flat of the jig stop.  Works, just takes a bit of practice.  (You can adjust the angle of the blade in the clamp, to make the front portion a higher or lower angle than the main part).

You don't need the SVM-00 for the knife you mentioned (in fact, I think it would make it harder).  I would clamp it so the front portion of the blade is  approximately parallel to the front of the jig... there's little curve to the blade, so you should get an even bevel.  (Mark it with a Sharpie, and note where metal is being removed).  (Here's a quick pic. of a similar blade, to give an idea of what I mean)...

[Stickan]

Hi all,
When Ken and I talked, we talked about file knives. That's when I use my fingers on the blade if I don't use the SVM-140.
For Tanto knives, I have done some different solutions. From combining both SVM-45 and SE-77 and to eyeball it with the SVM-45. Even freehand. As usual, there are many ways of sharpening and Tormek has no specific solution to sharpen Tanto blades.

Best,
Stig

[Stephen M]

Thank you Stig!  That really helps!  You folks are awesome!!!!

-Stephen