USB threads rusting

[bisonbladesharpening]

I use my T8 many hours weekly and it is a workhorse.
Any advice for how to keep the threaded part of the USB
from always rusting would be appreciated.
Best Wishes
Tim

[jeffs55]

 BOESHIELD T-9

[Ken S]

Jeff,

I am sure Boeshield T9 would work. As I recall,it was originally designed to prevent rust on airplanes.

Jeff, you have been an active forum member even longer than me. Do you recall reading any other posts about rust on the USB threads? I don't. What is especially puzzling to me is that this is happening with a T8, a newcomer to the Tormek lineup.

Using a softer brush (like brass or plastic) with something like Boeshield on the threads might help.

Does your drinking water have a lot of minerals in it or go through a water softener? a simple way to test your water would be to try using distilled water from the grocery store. A gallon or two for test purposes shouldn't be a budget buster. (once your USB has been brushed to get rid of existing rust)

ACC might be considered "the nuclear option." If the problem should prove to be your water, are you drinking it?

An email to support (support@tormek.se) would not hurt.

I hope we have more replies. Please keep us posted.

Ken

[jeffs55]

I am actually stunned that a professional sharpener is having this problem. I have not heard of it before.

[Ken S]

Considering that Tim is a professional sharpener, and that we have not heard this complaint from other professionals, I would take a close look at the water.

Ken

[bisonbladesharpening]

Thanks, I'll try the Boeshield.  I currently just brass brush it and use
food safe superlube.  I always use the same city water that I have been on forever.
No I don't drink it. I'm going to get a sample tested.  I also do most of my work in front of the wheel so that part of the USB
stays quite wet.
Best Wishes
Tim

[ega]

I have some small spots of rust on my threaded USB but none at all on the original SuperGrind 2000 USB; the plating is not the same on these which may help to explain the difference.
Both are perfectly functional but stainless steel would be a better material.

[Ken S]

Ega,

I agree that stainless steel would be better. I looked on the "news feed" tab on tormek.com. The threaded microadjust universal support bar was introduced in February of 2003, more than four years before the T7. Unless the plating has changed in very recent years, I don't see where rusting USB threads is related to just the T8.

I am puzzled that I do not recall reading previous posts about this.

Jeff, please tell us more about using Boshield. Does it work like a hard surface waxlike substance or more like oil?

Tim, when you are cleaning up after a sharpening session, do you remove your USB and dry it off before applying a rust preventative?

When I was testing CBN wheels used wet and dry with the Tormek, I tried using one briefly with plain water. The wheel was steel with an uncoated steel reducing bushing and several drilled balancing holes. Even though I dried and oiled the wheel and bushing immediately after use, the area of the balance holes and the bushing rusted. (The rust was all easily removed, however, all future tests included Honerite Gold, an anticorrosion solution.)

Please send an email to support.

Ken

[Ken S]

Jeff,

Have you used Boeshield T9 with the non stainless steel main shaft on your SuperGrind?

Ken

[ega]

The largest area of rust on my threaded USB is at the weld, an obviously vulnerable point and also a critical one since the USB legs must be in alignment (presumably, the extended USB has two welds and twice the potential problem).
I understand that it is possible for stainless steel to lose its "stainless" characteristic locally by being welded.
Incidentally, I gather that Tormek have made changes to the USB mounts designed to improve the location of the support which ideally should take up a consistently parallel attitude to the wheel regardless of distance from it.

[John_B]

Boeshield was developed by Boeing for a number of corrosion prevention applications. I have not reviewed the SDS but it may be similar in function to WD-40.
I may order some and give it a try. It is not all that expensive, a 1oz bottle is only $3.99.

https://boeshield.com/

[jeffs55]

I have not use Boeshield on my Tormek in any application but perhaps I should! The only rust point on mine thus far has been the NON stainless shaft and its attendant washer and the metal on the stone. Curiously, or maybe not, the nut has not rusted although touching the washer and shaft. This at least on the old Supergrind I used most recently. I am going to go out on a limb here and suggest that drying the USB would greatly reduce the chance of rust. Honestly, I use the machine so little that there is little to no chance of moisture hanging around except until the stone dries out through evaporation.

[Ken S]

I like solutions which are low tech, low cost solutions. I prefer preventative to restorative solutions. The low tech solution to this problem seems obvious. At the end of a sharpening session, remove and dry off the support bar. Holding it against a paper towel, apply a little Boeshield to the threads and weld. Wipe down the rest of the support bar. For heavy duty users like Tim, we might want to repeat the procedure before starting.

Ken

[bisonbladesharpening]

I bought a 4 oz. bottle of the T-9 and have been using it for
about a week.  It has a 2 hour dry time so I have been applying it at the end of the day.
The label describes it as a solvent and paraffin wax formula that dries to a thin film that lubricates and protects.
It's pretty much colorless and odorless and once it dries you wouldn't know its there.  I think a weekly application
will probably work.

[jeffs55]

Check out this test of corrosion inhibitors on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyWHF4NoNVk