Tormek Supergrind - Starting Over

[Rick_B]

The other thing I noticed was a lot of waterunder the machine - is this typical?

Thanks
Rick

[RickKrung]

The other thing I noticed was a lot of waterunder the machine - is this typical?

Thanks
Rick

It is hard to say about how normal it is to have water under the machine.  I know nothing about models earlier than the T8.  On my T8, I get quite a bit of water under the machine when using the diamond wheels, but not any of the matrix stones (SG, SB and SJ).  It remains a mystery why.  What I have done, primarily since the diamond wheel water is laced with AC solution, I don't want to lose any of it, so I use a cafeteria tray under it and that captures the escaped water. 

Rick

[Rick_B]

Thanks Rick - I'm curious if others with an older model have experienced this issue

Rick

[Jan]

Rick, nice to see the red laser line on the grinding wheel showing the desired line of contact of the edge with the stone. 

Jan

[Ken S]

Rick,

Looking at your photograph, you certainly have a lot of water spillage. The only cause I can think of is overfilling the water trough. Taking a guess, I can imagine the water line in the trough being designed for an initial fill, allowing absorbtion by the original wheel. Diamond (and CBN) wheels do not absorb water. This might make the water line as being too high for them.

I think a better technique for any model Tormek is to fill the water trough to have the water just start to flow over the grinding wheel with the motor running. The wheel will continue absorbing water for about a minute. Leave the motor running and gradually add water until the water just begins to flow over the top when absorption is complete. 

As I write this, I am aware that I have not sharpened knives longer than eight inches. I just purchased a ten inch Victorinox chef's knife to stretch my length. I can imagine that long knives might be more prone to water spillage. I still think the amount of water in the tray is probably due to overfilling.

I like the cafeteria tray idea, especially if the whole tray is rotated instead of lifting the Tormek. I hope you combine it with a turkey baster.

Ken

[Rick_B]

Ken - I think you may be onto something - when I tried out my existing TT-50 I remember adding water several times.  I may have gone over the fill line thinking the wheel would absorb the excess.  Maybe it was actually flowing out the back side a little.  I'll be more careful next time and see what happens.

Thanks
Rick - but not the cafwteria tray Rick 

[Ken S]

Rick,
Our other Rick is from the Pacific Northwest. They use different types of "cafwateria trays" out there. 
Ken

[Rick_B]

I guess the one concern I have is that I don't know what I don't know.  I have read about chatter - I don't think I experienced that but what would I look for on the stone after truing?  I am assuming the chatter would be coming from the up/down movement of the diamond carrier?  Is this where the tie wrap solution Ken mentions comes into play?

I"m still curious about the "chatter" problem mewntioned with the TT-50.  I canLt find any discussion about it or the tie wrap solution.  Anyone have a link?

So assuming I'm OK with the current TT-50 - my purchase list now looks like

SE-77 Square edge jig - for sure
SVD-186 gouge jig - for sure
SG250 wheel - not likely
MSK-250 Shaft Kit - not at this tim
TT-50 Truing Tool

If I was going to splurge - what makes more sense - the shaft kit or a new wheel.  I'm looking at this as I will be at the show where discounts will be available so if I may need something over the next year now is the time to purchase.  I'm still thinking if I get a wheel it will be the SG-250 - unless someone has some good reasons to go with a SB-250 - I am certainly open to other viewpoints.

Show is 4 days away - any ideas on how to spend my money?

Rick

[Ken S]

Rick,

Here is a link to a very good discussion which shows ways to correct possible chatter:

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3053.0

Please be advised, the key phrase is "possible chatter". Many of us have never experienced it. When you use your
TT-50, have you experienced any problems?

Ken

[Rick_B]

Thanks Ken - after reading through your linked thread I don't "think" I am having the chatter symptoms described.  After using the truing tool I don't see any cracks, diaginal grooves, etc - the stone appears smooth and consistent.  I'm going to assume for now that the TT-50 does not need replaced.

Rick

PS - still looking for ideas to spend my money - I'm not necessarily anxious to spend $ but I also don't want to look back and think I should have bought something at a discount

[Ken S]

Rick,
Your TT-50 sounds OK. (glad to read it!)

For the funds you really want to spend, I have two suggestions:

1) the RM-533 Rubber Work Mat

2) the RB-180 Rotating Base

These are around $60 US each. Neither is a glamour choice, however, both are very functional, and you will use them in every sharpening session, regardless of what you sharpen.

Enjoy the show, and keep us posted.

Ken

[Rick_B]

Ken - thanks for the choices on other accessories.  I already have the swivel base an a reasonably good stand with a formica top so I don't think I need the rubber mat.

I went to the show yesterday (actually it was a Klingspor Extravaganze event) - Tormek had a booth but the discounts were only in the 10% range - not enough for me to buy things I MAY need in the future.  I only ended up buying the SE-77 and SVD-186 jigs.

One final "getting started" question - I'm going to start with some chisels - I have quite a few that just need touch up but a couple that need complete reshaping.  As a result I'm going to need to regrade the stone.  As mentioned up thread I have both a used and a new grading stones.  The fine side of the used stone is pretty dished/deformed (pictures below) - can I still use the fine side of this stone or should I just use the course side?

Secondly what technique improvements would reduce or eliminate the dishing - or maybe it is normal?

Thanks
Rick

[Ken S]

Rick,

Too bad that the discount was only 10%. That seems enough to buy what you need at the time if you happen to already be at the show. It wouldn't excite me enough to drive very far just for the discount or buy much ahead. On the other hand, that may be all prudent management feels it can reasonably offer. I hope you learned things from the demonstrators, the real reason to attend a show.

I would be reluctant to use a stone grader which was worn too much to be straight. Stone graders are not that expensive. I consider them long term consumables, like grinding wheels.

Ken

[Rick_B]

I think I've read where the TT-50 at a slow speed (90 sec) will give a finish equal to the fone side of the stone grader.  Does anyone use the TT-50 instead of the stone?

Rick

[John_B]

I think I've read where the TT-50 at a slow speed (90 sec) will give a finish equal to the fone side of the stone grader.  Does anyone use the TT-50 instead of the stone?

Rick

It gives a very coarse finish on the stone; coarser then you can do with the stone.