Blowing out edge of SG wheel when trueing

[Ken S]

Excellent question, Antz. I just emailed Tormek support a screen shot of your post asking if there was a coding on the box or other way for the dealer/customer to determine which version of the TT-50 was in the package.

I have used the pre 2019 version of the TT-50 with excellent results for many years. Recently, I added a 2019 version. I have never experienced the chatter problem with the older version. If I ever have that problem, I will quickly correct it with electrical ties. The fix is inexpensive, fast, easy, and permanent.

I will use whichever version reaches my hands first. However, if I was purchasing a new unit, I would insist on having the new design, especially if paying full price.It really is "new and improved".

Tormek stopped production of the older design before the 2019 version was announced. New T8s have been leaving Sweden with the new version. The problem will only be with "new old stock". Looking back, after the T8 was introduced, there were a lot of new T7s available for a long time. The T7 is a stalwart machine, an ideal choice for someone looking for a less expensive Tormek option, IF at a discounted price. So is the pre 2019 TT-50, for a T4 owner, if the price is right. At half price, I would be tempted by the older design. Approaching full price, I would insist on the 2019 version.

I will post the answer from support.

Ken

ps CAUTION: Tormek also makes a TT-50U version at a reduced price. This is the same tool, minus the diamond cluster. This is sold to allow owners with the original pre TT-50 truing tool to reuse their diamond clusters at a savings. (No, you have not found a mispriced bargain.....been there, done that.)

[mat450]

By the way, do you know why Tormek stone wheels never run round out of the box, even if they are perfectly round in shape?

Yesterday we were measuring the arbor hole (bore) in the wheels, using a Telescopic Gauge Micrometer.
The stone wheel hole diameter showed 12.08 mm.
While the Tormek shaft diameter, measured with a micrometer, is within 12 - 12.01 mm.
The SG, SB and SJ wheel arbor hole is made a bit wider on purpose, for the ease of mounting and so that the wheel won't get stuck on the shaft if left sitting on it for prolonged period.

You see now why you have to true every new wheel?
When you mount the wheel, it will sit on the shaft a little off its center, and because of that will be rotating out of round.
To make the wheel run round, when truing the new wheel, we are to mark the wheel and then always mount it in the same position.

I discovered this variance sometime ago, although small it can really make a differnce, especially when changing wheels all the time. 

I have drawn an arrow on the drive shaft and always ensure it's pointed up and mount wheel with writing up the right way.