TT-50 Problem

[Thalweg]

Hi,
This is my first time posting here. I got my new T-8 about a month ago and I've been diligently sharpening every tool in my shop. Today I slipped while sharpening a chisel and put a gouge in the stone. So I got out the TT-50 to clean up the wheel and the tool froze up on me. It seems like the plastic knob is frozen up in the bushing in the side of the tool. The part that holds the cutter that goes back and forth on the threaded rod seems to be free, so I don't think that is the problem.

I emailed the seller tonight, and hopefully they'll help me out under warranty. Unfortunately, I'm sitting here with a damaged stone and no way to fix it until I hear back from them. I suspect that if I could get the tool apart I could fix it, at least temporarily. This thing doesn't want to come apart though. Has anyone ever taken a TT-50 apart? I'd appreciate any advise anyone has.

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Thalweg.

It sounds like the plastic lock knob which secures the TT-50 to the universal support bar has jammed. Is this correct? If so.....

You may be able to loosen it with a round rubber jar loosening tool. It will increase your gripping power.

My second course of action would be to gently use Channelock pliers or Vise Grips wrapped with electrical tape to prevent damaging the plastic knob. The ke6 word is gently.

I had a very similar experience. I forgot to tighten the knob securing my TT-50 and the universal support bar. I put a nasty gouge in my grinding wheel. I thought that I had ruined my diamond. When I was calm again, I tried using the TT-50 very carefully. Everything is back to normal.

I suspect you may have tried to take too deep of a cut. Try setting the cutter depth such that the first pass barely touches only the high spots. Advance a half of a number at a time. This takes a little longer, however, it is very controlled.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[Thalweg]

Thanks Ken. I did try the Channel locks and Vise Grips, and things just got tighter, but I'll give it another shot. I really don't have anything to lose at this point.

I wasn't actually cutting anything when it froze up. I was passing the tool over the stone to adjust it. It really feels like something is jammed in the bushing on the side. I think the only way it is coming out is if I can get the knob off to pull the rod out.

[Ken S]

Thalweg,
I think this is beyond my distant diagnosic skills. I suggest you contact support (support@tormek.se)
Ken

[Thalweg]

Thanks Ken. I will contact them if the seller doesn't come through, though I have every confidence that they will get me fixed up. I got a knob off, and there is a pressed in brass bushing in the zinc housing. There is no way I could get that out without destroying the whole thing.  I guess that just means no more sharpening for a few days.

[RickKrung]

Hi,
This is my first time posting here. ...snip...

I suspect that if I could get the tool apart I could fix it, at least temporarily. This thing doesn't want to come apart though. Has anyone ever taken a TT-50 apart? I'd appreciate any advise anyone has.

I have taken one apart, when I motorized it.  The plastic knobs have threaded brass inserts.  The knobs/threaded inserts are "glued" to the threads with thread locking compound.  I believe I got them free just by unscrewing one knob while securely gripping the other.  I may have used vise grips on both knobs to get them loose.  See the pixs below.

I'm having trouble conceptualizing how your tool became stuck.  It is hard for me to figure how one knob seized up.  The only way I've seen my tool get stuck is when I've run it too far in either direction and drove the diamond cutter assembly into one or the other sides of the jig.  That has only happened under motorized power, so I am having a hard time understanding your stuck tool. 

The threaded rod shaft (10mm) rides on turned down, unthreaded journals, one 8mm dia., the other end 10mm, IIRC.  The knob threads are 6mm, again IIRC).  There are plastic spacers between the knobs and the tool body.  Pretty simple.  It is hard for me to comprehend how the threaded shaft is turning freely and one knob is not. 

Photos and perhaps a video would help me a lot. 

Rick

[Riverman]

  disregard

[Thalweg]

Thanks Rick and Riverman,

The pictures help. At least I can see what I'm dealing with. I have applied oodles of WD-40... no joy. It seems like the brass bushing must have gaulled or something (though I don't understand how that could happen). I can't turn it at all now, it's frozen up solid. Since my entire set-up (T-8, hand tool kit and turning tool kit) are all less than a month old, this should be covered under warranty. I suspect that if I mess around too much more, by trying to remove the bushings, I'll void the warranty. So I better just hold off on doing anything more at this point.

I appreciate the help and advise. This is an awesome forum. Lots of helpful people.

[RickKrung]

Thanks Rick and Riverman,

The pictures help. At least I can see what I'm dealing with. I have applied oodles of WD-40... no joy. It seems like the brass bushing must have gaulled or something (though I don't understand how that could happen). I can't turn it at all now, it's frozen up solid. Since my entire set-up (T-8, hand tool kit and turning tool kit) are all less than a month old, this should be covered under warranty. I suspect that if I mess around too much more, by trying to remove the bushings, I'll void the warranty. So I better just hold off on doing anything more at this point.

I appreciate the help and advise. This is an awesome forum. Lots of helpful people.

I agree on two things.

1) I don't see how the brass insert (it isn't a bushing) could cause it to bind as it only connects the knob to the shaft.  For the shaft to have seized, something has happened between the shaft and the tool body journals.  Rather than WD40, I would recommend Kano Kroil.  Its only purpose is to penetrate and free up seized joints.  I think it is primarily meant to deal with iron rust, which should not be an issue here, but it is likely going to do a lot more than WD40. 

2) You are dealing with an issue that should be taken care of under warranty.  I would not mess with the tool, for the reason you stated.  Return it for a new one. 

Rick

[Thalweg]

Just an update, in case anyone cares. The company that handles Tormeks warranty issues is sending a new TT-50. They were very helpful and friendly. I can't complain at all about them. They're doing a good job.

I did end up taking the TT-50 apart to find what the problem was. The metal around the hole that the axle shaft passes through is coming apart. I believe the term is gaulling. It scored the machined surface of the shaft. I boogered up the brass knurl nuts taking them off, but the warranty company doesn't seem to mind.

[Ken S]

Brent,

For the record, we do care. The reason I refer members to support is that I have seen the fastest and best resolution through dealing with support. Dealers mean well, however, the process usually takes longer. The companies handling warranty repairs are usually the national importer. In the US, that is Affinity Tool. I have gotten to know several members of the Affinity team over the years. They, like Tormek itself, are stand up people.

I do not expect any company to have no product problems. I do expect a good company to handle those problems well and take good care of the customer. Tormek has never let me down.

Please continue to post.

Ken

[Thalweg]

Hi Ken,

I didn't mean to imply that nobody would care. I hope it didn't come out that way. The reason I wanted to post this was to help others if they have similar problems.

I feel the same way. No perfect tool has ever been built (no perfect anything for that matter). I also agree that the things that differentiate a good company from a poor company is how well they stand behind their products. I bought my T-8 and accessories from Sharpening Supplies.com. I informed them of the problem and they sent the issue to Affinity. They also indicated that if Affinity wasn't able to help me, they would. Couldn't ask more than that. Affinity was "Johnny on the Spot" though. I had several phone conversations with them. They wanted to take care of the problem, either by helping me fix the tool or replacing it. As soon as we figured out that it wasn't fixable, they shipped one out. That is about as good as customer service can get. It makes me glad that I bought the Tormek instead of one of the cheaper copies.

[Ken S]

Brent,

I am pleased this is working out well for you. I am also pleased to read a good report about Sharpening Supplies. That is the kind of outstanding service I would expect from a real deal Tormek dealer. I have been very fortunate with Tormek dealers. For almost all of my adult life, I lived "just down the road" from Hartville Hardware. For forty five years, they have served me well. My friend, Steve Bottorff (sharpeningmadeeasy.com), is an outstanding knife person, teacher, and Tormek dealer. And, I have had nothing but very positive dealings with Advanced Machinery. I will add Sharpening Supplies to my "known good guys" list.


Purchasig a Tormek is a long term investment. As noted in a present topic, Herman purchased his SuperGrind in 2004. I'm a newer kid on the block, having only recently purchased my T7 in 2009. Part of having a good relationship with your Tormek is also having a good relationship with your dealer.

I look forward to your future posts.

Ken