Tormek SG & leather wheel - razor sharp

[jvh]

Hello. First Time poster.
IF i have used the black marker method to get the same angle for The knife on the sharpening Stone, how can i change the lenght of the legs of the USB so that i can Quickly change from Stone to leather wheel?

Best regards
Nik3

Hello Nik3,

you can use TormekCalc https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3919.0 for reverse calculation of bevel angle through "marker method" (see "Bevel angle" sheet).
Then use this angle for USB heigth calculation for other stones/wheels (see "USB height" sheet).

[Jan]

Hello. First Time poster.
IF i have used the black marker method to get the same angle for The knife on the sharpening Stone, how can i change the lenght of the legs of the USB so that i can Quickly change from Stone to leather wheel?

Nik, there exists an angle setting tool for knives which may solve your task, but it is not easy/commercially available, so I did not mention it in my previous post. It is limited to selected bevel angles and assumes protrusion length 139 mm. It works for all wheel diameters.

I have designed it several years ago as a modification of Tormek TTS-100 (Turning Tool Setter). It was discussed in a very old thread, which was partially resurrected by Rick last year. https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2639.120

Jan

[Ken S]

Nik,

To elaborate slightly on Jan's posts: More sophisticated versions of the kenjig were designed to compensate for the decreasing diameter of the grinding wheel through wear.

The leather honing wheel does not change diameter. Therefore no wear compensation is needed. Jan's double ended kenjig or a separare kenjig made for the leather honing wheel will provide consistent angles over time. This assumes a consistent bevel angle. If you want to vary the bevel angles, you really need the Knife Grinders applet.For my home sharpening, I have standardized at 15° for each bevel. This would also be a good standard angle for farmers market sharpeners.

Like the leather honing wheel, diamond and CBN wheels do not change diameter and work well with the kenjig. Diameter reduction occurs very gradually over the life of the grinding wheel. Frankly, for most sharpeners, I feel diameter changes with one wheel is a minor concern.

Be sure to check Rich Colvin's online Sharpening Handbook. Over coffee I recently made the comment to Rich that although I wrote the kenjig instructions, the quickest way for me to find them was on his sharpening handbook. Rich's handbook has lots of good information, including Dutchman's grinding tables. Find Rich's member listing. His signature includes a link to his sharpening handbook.

Ken

[John_B]

Here is a link to the handbook:

http://www.sharpeninghandbook.info/

[RickKrung]

Hello. First Time poster.
IF i have used the black marker method to get the same angle for The knife on the sharpening Stone, how can i change the lenght of the legs of the USB so that i can Quickly change from Stone to leather wheel?

Nik, there exists an angle setting tool for knives which may solve your task, but it is not easy/commercially available, so I did not mention it in my previous post. It is limited to selected bevel angles and assumes protrusion length 139 mm. It works for all wheel diameters.

I have designed it several years ago as a modification of Tormek TTS-100 (Turning Tool Setter). It was discussed in a very old thread, which was partially resurrected by Rick last year. https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2639.120

Jan

Jan's jig is quite formidable to make.  Enough so that I made four "single angle" jigs based on Jan's work.  I did these four single angle jigs as a stop-gap measure because I was starting sharpening at a farmers market very soon. 

Info on my first two jigs starts here at 16º and 18º.  I added two more here 12º and 14º.  I used these four jigs and found them to be just about everything I needed for fast and accurate setting of angles on grinding wheels of varying diamter (SB, SG, SJ, three diamond wheels and the leather honing wheel). 

If you are going to work with just a single angle, it should be relatively easy to make one like I did.  If plans (a drawing) of dimensions has not already been posted (no time right not to look), I can post them for the ones I made. 

Rick

[Jan]

Jan's jig is quite formidable to make.  Enough so that I made four "single angle" jigs based on Jan's work.  I did these four single angle jigs as a stop-gap measure because I was starting sharpening at a farmers market very soon. 

Info on my first two jigs starts here at 16º and 18º.  I added two more here 12º and 14º.  I used these four jigs and found them to be just about everything I needed for fast and accurate setting of angles on grinding wheels of varying diamter (SB, SG, SJ, three diamond wheels and the leather honing wheel). 

If you are going to work with just a single angle, it should be relatively easy to make one like I did.  If plans (a drawing) of dimensions has not already been posted (no time right not to look), I can post them for the ones I made. 

Rick

Rick, it was a great pleasure for me to read your post about how you use the jig. Thanks for sharing your experience. 

The back engineering of the TTS-100 was quite challenging task, but it revealed its design and enabled me to modify it for knives. In a nutshell: the key component of the jig design is the pair of contact discs which define the tangent to the wheel at the contact of the wheel with the edge. The direction of this line does not depend on wheel diameter...

Jan

[Ken S]

Well done, Jan. (I would expect nothing less from you!)

Ken

[RickKrung]

...snip...
If you are going to work with just a single angle, it should be relatively easy to make one like I did.  If plans (a drawing) of dimensions has not already been posted (no time right not to look), I can post them for the ones I made. 

Rick

There has been a request for drawings of the single angle HanJigs.  So, I am posting PDF files of the four drawings I made for making my jigs.  I'm happy to answer questions and help in other ways as may be desired. 

There are four drawings, one for each angle.  However, the major dimensions are the same for 12º and 14º jigs and only the USB hole placement differs between the two.  Same for 16º and 18º jigs.  These are in "inches".  If you cannot do conversion to metric, I can generate them with metric dimensions. 

Rick

[Jan]

Well done, Jan. (I would expect nothing less from you!)

Ken

Thank you Ken, it is my real pleasure to see that the jig works fine. 

It is my reward for stumbling in the darkness during the deconstruction of the model jig TTS-100. 

Jan

[RickKrung]

Thank you Ken, it is my real pleasure to see that the jig works fine. 

It is my reward for stumbling in the darkness during the deconstruction of the model jig TTS-100. 

Jan

Methinks you are too gracious.  I love reverse engineering stuff.  I do it very frequently, when designing an adaptation to a jig or other tool/contraption, to get the "base" into CAD and then build the "whatever".  On the surface, from a physical perspective, the TTS-100 is simple enough.  I think the brilliance was in "thinking" of adapting it for knife sharpening.  And then there was figuring out the geometry/math. 

Again, well done.

Rick

[Jan]

Thank you Rick! 

Jan

[tgbto]

I was on this thread as part of my binge-reading this excellent forum to otpimize my learning curve with the T8.

As can be seen on SEM images done by Todd Simpson, the chromium oxide grains, and a commercial diamond spray labelled as 0.25-micron, are close in size, both ranging from 0.15 to 0.5 microns.

The site https://www.thiers-issard.fr/fr/accessoires-de-rasoirs/79-13467-chromox.html mentions 3.6 and 2.5 micron granulometry, not .25 or .5 ... Is there some kind of breakdown of the chromox crystals that crushes them to a smaller average size ?

[micha]

Hi Nick,

you're right, there are different specifications around.

The (German) datasheet of the Kremer pigments I use says "predominant grain size" is 0.3.
No mentioning of "maximum grain size" or the like.  https://www.kremer-pigmente.com/elements/resources/products/files/44200.pdf

As most sources agree that green compounds with Cr2O3 are very fine and also are suitable for polishing tasks I tend to believe that.

Mike