front vertical support

[craigsalisbury]

Hi all,

I presume the subject is a description of what i'm looking for, does one exist? I presume it would just be like a 90 degree block that locks into the horizontal support to give the same function as the rear vertical support but grinding with the wheel away from the tool.

I have real problems trying to use the horizontal support, it just doesn't feel natural.

Cheers,

Craig

[Ken S]

Craig,

Yes, there is a very nice vertical front base available for the Tormek. Here is a link:

http://knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop_VB.htm

I purchased one of these. It is well designed and machined. Incidentally, the price is in Australian dollars. I did not realize this until my order was ready to submit. The price was lower when automatically adjusted to US dollars. Be sure to watch the videos.

Vadim ("Wootz" on the forum and the proprietor of Knife Grinders) has used his vertical base in a video showing very impressive sharpness numbers with the Tormek. Also note in Wootz' videos that he uses very careful, thorough sharpening technique.

Please pardon my inner imp. You might want to wait until the paint dries on your Tormek before deciding the horizontal doesn't feel natural. I remember a post where the poster had trouble with the SE-77.   

I devised a way to use the vertical side horizontally. It was brilliant on paper. Fortunately, I tried it before posting it. The flood it created made water spillage reports from other members sound like the sahara. It was a glorious failure. However, it does work well when using CBN wheels dry.

Work with the horizontal position until you master it. At that point, if you still want the vertical front base, by all means go for it!

Ken

[craigsalisbury]

Very wise words Ken

I will buy some cheap knives to get some more practice on it.  You mentioned the poster with the SE77 issues.....wonder who that was 

[RickKrung]

...snip...
SE-77.
...snip... 

Arrrgh!  Now what jig is that again?  Okay, open the Tormek site and go to "Jigs" and scroll down the list.  Oh yeah, it is the "Square Edge" jig.  I should bookmark that URL. 

I really wish that folks would include what jig they are referring too by name, as well as by model number. 

Sorry for the mini-rant, but this has been frustrating me for a long time. 

Rick

[Ken S]

Oops...... Guilty as charged.
Ken

[craigsalisbury]

sorry I should know better, I saw a post about the bushcraft because it came with a certain model jig and i also had to look it up which bugged me.

won't do it again.....scouts honour (with a u)

[jeffs55]

I don't get it, you can grind with the wheel turning away from you with the standard USB. Or at least I thought I was.

[craigsalisbury]

you can, but only in the horizontal position.....unless youre doing it backwards lol

[GKC]

I really wish that folks would include what jig they are referring too by name, as well as by model number. 

Rick

I made this list, which I keep as a "Note" on my iPhone, to help me when confronted with jig numbers.  I think it is accurate, but it is not anything "official":

Tormek Jig numbers

US-105 universal support for T-7 & T-8
XB-100 support base (plate and knobs only)
MB-100 Multi-Base
USB universal support bracket
BGM-100 bench grinder mounting set

SVM-45 knife jig
SVM-140 long knife jig
SVM-00 small knife jig
SVA-170 axe jig
SVS-38 short tool jig
SVD-185 gouge jig (old)
SVD-186 gouge jig
SVS-50 multi jig
SVH-60 straight edge jig ('92-'07)
SE-76 square edge jig (old)
SE-77 square edge jig
SVX-150 scissors jig
SVD-110 tool rest
SVH-320 planer blade attachment
SVP-80 moulding knife attachment
DBS-22 drill bit sharpening attachment
TT-50 truing tool
SP-650 stone grader
WM-200 AngleMaster
TTS-100 turning tool setter
LA-120 profiled leather honing wheels
LA-124 narrow profiled "discs" (leather honing wheels)
RB-180 rotating base
RM-533 rubber work mat

Stones
SG-200/250 original grindstone
SB-250 Blackstone silicon grindstone
SJ-200/250 Japanese waterstone
DC-250  Diamond Coarse
DF-250  Diamond Fine
DE-250  Diamond Extra-fine

Gord

[Dakotapix]

Thanks for the list, Gord. I made a copy and put it on my Notes app on my iPad.

[Ken S]

Good list, Gord. I'm guilty of forgetting the jig names often, especially the older Swedish designations........

Ken

[cbwx34]

Hi all,

I presume the subject is a description of what i'm looking for, does one exist? I presume it would just be like a 90 degree block that locks into the horizontal support to give the same function as the rear vertical support but grinding with the wheel away from the tool.

I have real problems trying to use the horizontal support, it just doesn't feel natural.

Cheers,

Craig

The Front Vertical Base (FVB) isn't too hard to make...



... there's a bunch of info in THIS THREAD.

Bear in mind that if you make your own, it won't necessarily work with knifegrinder's app that Ken mentioned... unless they modify it or shares the  measurements for the build... which I don't know if they'll do either one... since he sells his own version.  (But you can use other established methods to set the angle).

But I'll add to what Ken said... sharpening from the vertical position should be given a good effort at learning first... sharpening with the wheel turning into the edge results in a better edge (my opinion), and also the water running into the edge gives a good indication of contact with the wheel, which you lose going the other direction.  (And really not sure what's not "natural" that you're referring to... the movement is essentially the same?)

I don't get it, you can grind with the wheel turning away from you with the standard USB. Or at least I thought I was.

You can, but if your knife is too long, the tightening knob can hit on the USB support.  (The manual says "short knives" only).  Of course a low profile screw would eliminate the issue... but what's the fun in that? 

Also, it is a bit easier to have the knife higher when sharpening, and a bit more "natural" position... not terribly important, unless maybe doing a lot of knives.

[GKC]

I also built my own front vertical base, based on an earlier picture of Craig's jig, and it works well. 

My slight modification was that, instead of 12mm threaded rod for the bars, I used stainless steel 12mm x 200mm bolts with the heads cut off.  These headless bolts gave me a short threaded section for attachment to the 1"x2" aluminium box, and smooth stainless steel for the part of the bars that goes into the support base.  I don't think that this modification will make much difference, I just liked the idea of smooth bars going into the holders, and I don't need threads for a micro-adjust capability on this mount.

Gord