Sharpening multi-blade pocketknives

[wanderingwhittler]

I'm curious about how people sharpen the blades of multi-blade pocketknives on the Tormek. Specifically, I'm wondering about blades that are offset from the centerline of the handle and are also too small to be held with the SVM-45.

From what I've read here, a platform jig should handle these with aplomb. But what if, like me, you don't have one? Are there tricks for using the SVM-00 and dealing with the offset from the centerline? I haven't tried it yet, but I'm concerned about not getting even bevels on both sides. Or, do people tend to freehand these blades? Or something else?

I do plan to build a platform jig eventually, but I'm wondering whether I can satisfactorily sharpen these blades with the Tormek in the mean time.

[RickKrung]

Greg,

I have not run into the issue of offset blades in a multi-blade folder yet.  But when I do, I would likely try shimming the handle in the -00 holder.  I've not heard of anyone trying this, but it works for the -45 and -140 jigs.  It could be tricky as there are not square surfaces to work from with the -00 jig.  I believe I would find or make the right thickness in a piece of wood and tape it (tighly) to the knife handle on the side it needs to be on to center the blade and then try to clamp it in the jig.  Hopefully, the taped-up combo would not be too wide for the jig. 

I think a platform could be problematic.  Short blades and the knife body may make it difficult to reach from both sides of the platform, unless it is only as wide as the wheel. 

When you do get to the point of making a platform, I suggest you buy the scissors jig base as a separate item from Advanced Machinery (item #1, part #0230) and cut it down to just the width of the wheels.  You can cut just 2" off one end and drill/tap a locking screw hole or you could cut off both ends to use just the 2" center part, but the former leaves you with enough base for other uses.  You do not need to buy the sliding film unless you think you would use it on the cutoff piece. 

Rick

[cbwx34]

I'm curious about how people sharpen the blades of multi-blade pocketknives on the Tormek. Specifically, I'm wondering about blades that are offset from the centerline of the handle and are also too small to be held with the SVM-45.
...

Freehand with a Laser Guide.

[RichColvin]

Greg,

I had that exact problem you described.  One solution is to grind one side at a different angle than the other .  The included angle would be the same, so it would work as expected even though it's not beautiful.  In the end, I use the small knife jig for carving knives and not multi-bladed pocket knives.

I made a platform blade by bolting a piece of cutting board plastic onto a platform jig (SVD-110).  I cut the plastic to be the same width as the grindstone so that the bolster of the knife would come all the way to the stone.

The SVD-110 jig costs about $40.

Cutting the plastic and making the bevel on it took about 30 mins, and drilling and tapping holes in the platform jig took another 30 mins.

This, or the laser-guided hand method is what I recommend.

Kind regards,
Rich

[wanderingwhittler]

Rick, CB, and Rich, thank you for your suggestions. It's good to see that there are a variety of techniques that have been used with success.

I have neither a laser nor a platform, but I do want to get both of those set up some day. I was planning for a wheel-width platform, which, from Rick and Rich's comments, sounds like definitely the way to go. I've found a couple of old threads describing various laser setups, so I think I've got a good understanding of how to implement both when the time comes.

I think I'll give it a go with Rick's shimming idea first, since I have everything on hand to try it. I previously tried using feeler gauge shims in the SVM-00 when attempting to center a Mora 120 that I was trying to sharpen. I couldn't get that to work, but I think it's worth a shot with a multi-blade pocketknife both because the shim would be wider and there's a flatter surface against which to apply it. Also I would expect much smaller bevel on the pocketknife blades to be a bit more forgiving of slightly off center placement, at least in terms of being able to notice it. With the Mora's ~6mm bevels, any misalignment was quite evident.

One idea that I have for dealing with slightly rounded handles is using two cut-down soft wobble wedges, placed in opposition, as shims. That might work to cradle the handle and stay in place better. Depending on the knife, I may not be able to get it thin enough, but we'll see. I'm hoping to get some time to experiment over the weekend. I'll report back if I do.

[cbwx34]

Shims made me think... so I tried this...

I took a knife with an offset blade and held it so the blade is centered per the instructions (but without tightening the lock knob)...



... turns out most of the space to fill is under the handle, with a little bit to the side.  So, what to use?  Turns out good ol' chopsticks.   I just stuck them in until the space under and to the side was mostly filled, then tightened the lock knob.  Held it centered!  Here's some pics...







... just thought I'd post to get some ideas going.

p.s. About the laser...  you don't need a laser to sharpen freehand... just make sure you keep the knife in the same spot on the stone.  (I'm not that talented and need all the help I can get). 

[wanderingwhittler]

CB, that's brilliant! I'll try that first. Thanks!

And, thanks for the assurance that freehanding is possible without the laser. That's my fallback for now for cases where I can't get the jigs to work. I expect it to take some practice and will choose the blades accordingly.

[Sharpco]

CB, Good idea!

[RichColvin]

CB,

I love simple solutions.  That's awesome.

Kind regards,
Rich

[cbwx34]

Thanks... and while it did work, I honestly posted it just to spark some ideas.  (Mine looks like Tormek-Jenga).

[Ken S]

CB, Clever idea using the chop sticks.

However, if we look at the drawing from the handbook, the small blade tool is really designed for carving knives with wooden handles. That's fine; they need sharpening, too.

The traditional method of sharpening small knives with the Tormek was handheld, probably including resting the hands on the support bar. I don't see where any of the Tormek knife jigs have changed that. I do see where Herman's small platform is a big improvement. I have made two small platforms using the Torlock platform. They work OK, however, using the scissors jig platform as Herman does work better. I suspect this happened because Herman already happened to own a scissors jig. The end result is a platform with a lower center of gravity.

With Herman's platform, the platform can be removed and the scissors jig is still fully functional.

I would suggest trying two things:

1) Resting your hands on the support bar and carefully sharpening "freehand". (Try this with an inexpensive knife first.)
2) Making a Herman platform.
3) Practice.

Ken

[cbwx34]

...
However, if we look at the drawing from the handbook, the small blade tool is really designed for carving knives with wooden handles. That's fine; they need sharpening, too.
...

If I looked at the handbook... I'd probably only sharpen an 8" kitchen knife.   (Like you said, it needs updating).

In all seriousness though, the Small Knife Holder has actually proven beneficial beyond the Tormek... for sharpening a variety of knives in other "clamp style" knife sharpeners (as well as with the Tormek).  While it may have been designed for the knives you referenced... it will definitely do more than that.

I do agree though that some are simply easier to sharpen freehand, with a bit of practice.

[wanderingwhittler]

Thanks for the suggestion of using the USB for support while freehand sharpening, Ken. That had not occurred to me, even though I do that when using the stone grader. I tried freehanding without support a week or so ago for a a quick touch up to a small blade and found that I'd need a lot more practice to hold a stable position. I can see how using the USB support could make a big difference. I'll try that the next time I try freehand.

Herman's platform, or something similar, is what I have in mind when I get around to making one.

I do believe that the SVM-00 is applicable beyond just wood-handled carving knives. The Sharpen small knives with the Tormek Small Knife Holder SVM-00 promotional video from Tormek shows a folding pocket knife with a single centered blade. With a bit of ingenuity, I'd hope it can be made to work with offset blades as well, at least with larger blades. For smaller blades, like the pen blade on the Swiss Army Knife that CB showed above, I wouldn't be surprised if freehand is still the way to go.

[cbwx34]

I'm not sure if it's been mentioned... freehand sharpening is usually done with the wheel turning away from the edge (like honing on the leather wheel).

[wanderingwhittler]

I'm not sure if it's been mentioned... freehand sharpening is usually done with the wheel turning away from the edge (like honing on the leather wheel).

Oh yes, good point. And with the USB in horizontal position I assume?