Motor wobble

[Jimmy Ray]

Hi guys I'm new as your about to be able to tell
I recently bought a 2nd hand supergrind 2000
Thought I had a great deal until I tried to sharpen and the chisel was bouncing on the stone instantly assumed it needed dressing so used the diamond tool no help it was just hitting and missing so then realized upon dismantle the drive wheel was cracked and broken where pin goes so replaced with new still same problem next assumption was bearing / bushes so replaced same problem last stop was new shaft same problem I have now noticed the motor bounces  slight where it connects with the drive wheel I believe this rocking motion is pushing  the wheel up and down slightly as there is just a small amount of play in the spindle through the bushes its better but not great
Also can anyone tell me why the ez lock shaft is slightly less in diameter where it bushes on the stone end seems like it's just asking for play at that end I can try to upload a video but was gonna see if anyone else had this problem
Thanks James

[cbwx34]

Hi guys I'm new as your about to be able to tell
I recently bought a 2nd hand supergrind 2000
Thought I had a great deal until I tried to sharpen and the chisel was bouncing on the stone instantly assumed it needed dressing so used the diamond tool no help it was just hitting and missing so then realized upon dismantle the drive wheel was cracked and broken where pin goes so replaced with new still same problem next assumption was bearing / bushes so replaced same problem last stop was new shaft same problem I have now noticed the motor bounces  slight where it connects with the drive wheel I believe this rocking motion is pushing  the wheel up and down slightly as there is just a small amount of play in the spindle through the bushes its better but not great
Also can anyone tell me why the ez lock shaft is slightly less in diameter where it bushes on the stone end seems like it's just asking for play at that end I can try to upload a video but was gonna see if anyone else had this problem
Thanks James

Here's a couple of threads you might want to look at (and the video posted in the first one)... see if it helps any...

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3172

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3387
(this one talks about the diameter size difference of the bushing you mentioned).

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Jimmy.

If you have not already done so, you should contact Tormek support (support@tormek.se). You have probably spent more on repair parts than you originally spent on your Tormek. In fairness, you now have a better machine, with a new grinding wheel and a stainless steel EZYlock shaft. Tormeks rarely need repair, however, support in Sweden has forty years experience fixing the few which do require repair. I have found them very heblpful.

Don't forget to register your Tormek on the website. No warranty remains, however, registering your Tormek lets you access the latest edition of the handbook.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[Jimmy Ray]

Hi again
Thanks very much for the helpful advice
I have moved the stone position a few times and found a point where there is much less of a wobble or hump in the motion it is now connecting with the truing cutter all the way around it's turn much better
The wheel I have is the Blackstone 250 anyone out there reckon this is any good doesn't seem to grind  that fast but hey I'm still learning the machine now which jigs to buy next I can see this becoming a bit addictive !!! And thanks Ken I'm sure I'll be calling upon u our experience too very soon cheers guys !!

[puffin]

I have the same machine, with the same cracked drive wheel that I replaced with a zinc one. The motor still wobbled a bit, which I solved by truing the drive wheel rubber ring (sanding it until it was circular relative to the axis of rotation).

I did it by removing the leather wheel leaving only the drive wheel, inserting the USB backwards in the horizontal position to be able to get close to the drive wheel, setting/locking it a little under the thickness of the sandpaper away from the drive wheel (using paper shims set against the high spot on the wheel), then wrapping some 50-grit sandpaper around the usb and sliding it towards the wheel. I set it ever closer until the sanding noise was constant, and the motor stopped moving. You can also use the USB in the regular position and wrap the sandpaper around the lip of the scissor jig platform.

I used my old rubber ring on the new zinc wheel, keeping the one that came with it intact just in case.

It worked well. The motor is now static when the unit is running and the CBN wheels are more stable (I couldn't compensate for the wobble by using the truing tool on them).

I did the same thing with the leather wheel (this time with the USB inserted normally) because I found mine too wobbly. It now runs smooth and after some use, eliminated the bump at the seam.

These tweaks are more nitpicking than anything and don't make a big difference in actual use. They are also not use cases anticipated by Tormek and I if you choose to do the same I would be careful to sand only a little at a time to not put too much stress on the horizontal support. Also be sure to mark the position of the leather wheel relative to the drive wheel (which of the 3 holes each "pin" inserts into), and the drive wheel relative to the shaft in case you have to disassemble your machine. These all affect the centering.

[Ken S]

Very informative post, Puffin.

Ken