Idea for thick knives

[Y-Not]

Jan created a template giving an idea for correctly setting the blade...

Knife Point Setting Template

Yeah, I saw that earlier on in the days or weeks before my Tormek arrived.  In all honesty, at the time I first saw it, I had no idea what it's importance was.
Oh how time make the old man wise.

It's been printed and I'm going to put it to use this evening.  If it works (no reason to doubt), I'll laminate it and attach it to my bench. 

[cbwx34]

Jan created a template giving an idea for correctly setting the blade...

Knife Point Setting Template

Yeah, I saw that earlier on in the days or weeks before my Tormek arrived.  In all honesty, at the time I first saw it, I had no idea what it's importance was.
Oh how time make the old man wise.

It's been printed and I'm going to put it to use this evening.  If it works (no reason to doubt), I'll laminate it and attach it to my bench. 

Keep in mind it's mainly designed for the "pivoting", not "lifting" method.

Another way, if you pivot the knife, you can draw a line across the wheel, and with the power off, place the straight portion of the knife on the line, then move and pivot the blade, making sure the belly-to-tip area stays close to the line.  That should result in a fairly consistent bevel.

[Sharpco]

And one thing I think needs to be included in whatever might come out is a specific and direct discussion/demonstration of lifting the knife blade for maintaining the bevel along the curve/tip of knives.

Rick

As a self-confessed newbie to the Tormek, the bevel was giving me fits.

I read the manual several times.  I've seen almost every video there is and the bevels near the tips were always noticeably wider than on the reset of the knife. I started scrambling and searching for other ways to get the edges and bevels.

I finally sat down with yet another cup of coffee, re-read the manual again and found that the jig placement in relation to the tip has a BIG influence on the width of the bevel at the tip. 

Too close to the handle and the tip bevel is much wider than the body.  Too close to the tip (further from the handle) and the tip bevel is much thinner than the body.  It's a test and trial method that'll be perfected with practice. I finally nailed it last night and found the right balance (location of the jig) to make my bevels consistent from tip to heal.

However, some knives may not be able to clamp the jig to the tip. Because design, false edge...etc.