a good you tube for sharpening chip carving knives

[Ken S]

I was impressed with this you tube.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?noapp=1&v=3douKQ_ktkg

Ken

[cbwx34]

I was impressed with this you tube.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?noapp=1&v=3douKQ_ktkg

Ken

Pretty good.... except I believe he got the part about setting the USB height the same distance for both wheels incorrect... that will only work if the wheels are the same size.

[Jan]

Ken, thanks for the link to this interesting video.

In my thinking it is quite luxury arrangement of two Tormek grinders dedicated for carving knives sharpening. This approach farther requires identical diameters of both grindstones, as already mentioned by CB, what is difficult/expensive to guarantee.

If I remember correctly, Wootz has suggested a simple Basic program to solve this task for two grindstones of arbitrary diameters and one Tormek grinder.

The bevel angle side asymmetry is another issue. I am wondering if it is necessary to use the small knife jig. Maybe yes, I do not know.

Jan

[Ken S]

CB and Jan,

Your points are well made. Compensation should be made for differences in wheel diameters. This could easily be done using Dutchman's tables or Wootz'applet.

With flat carving knives, I doubt there would be much wheel wear. In fact, I would guess the SJ gets used more than the SG, using chip carver, Wayne Barton's expression, "to refresh the edge".

Admittedly, using two Tormeks might seem like a luxury, unless you already had two Tormeks. A veteran SuperGrind user might wish to modernize with a T8, and just keep his older Tormek. Or, a T8 user might find a desl he couldn't pass up on a SuperGrind. (I certainly do not need another Tormek, however, I don't know that I could walk away from a great deal on a used Tormek. 

Ken

[RickKrung]

I was a bit underwhelmed when he didn't correct the misalignment of the knife in the small knife jig.  I've only used mine a time or two and found the need to work the handle in the jig a bit to get the blade better aligned.  Interesting trick to back the stop a turn or two to change the angle to get the bevel widths the same.  He did not speak to how well centered the apex was after that, however. 

I was surprised to see him use the fine side of the stone grader to clean the SJ wheel.  I'm trying to remember if that is a recommended practice or if anyone does that.  I'd think it a bit coarse and would, over time, take off enough material to change the wheel diameter.  I have wondered a bit about the Nagura stone that I use and how it cleans the black stuff without take much if any of the stone away. 

I've been struggling, in my head, about the use of multiple Tormeks versus changing wheels.  I use only two wheels at the moment, the SB and SJ.  I change wheels on my single Tormek.  Soon (I hope) I will have three wheels (diamond) which will also need changing on a single Tormek.  I assume I will still use the SJ wheel after the diamond wheels, and while two diamond wheels may do it for some blades, I am sure there will be some that need more significant work and will require the use of the coarse diamond wheel (360), which could mean up to four wheel changes for a single blade.  Suddenly, a second Tormek is becoming more attractive.  I've also recently acquired a buffing machine and a paper wheel, so that would very likely change the mix at the finishing stage. 

I've only ever used a sharpening service once, at a local pub and supermarket, but I don't recall that he used but one wheel and then the leather honing wheel.  Since getting a Tormek and following discussions about setting the USB height for different angles, I seem to recall the guy did not change the USB for different knives, meaning he would have changes the bevel angles on some knives. But that raises the question in my mind he could do that so easily using only one wheel and not seeming to take a long time on any knife. 

At home, I work at my own pace, so wheel changes are not much of an issue.  However, my daughter manages a small farmer's market in the nearest "big" city, Baker City, OR. which, at 9720 pop., is by no means big. They have only about six tables (vendors) and appear to be struggling.  I was asked a couple months ago, before the marked opened, by my daughter if I wanted to set up a sharpening booth.  At the time, it was an emphatic "NO".  I am reconsidering that now, and that raises the issue of wheel changes in a different way: cycle time.

I think this could warrant it's own thread, so as to not bury it here or high-jack this thread, so I will start a new thread using my post here. 

Rick

[RickKrung]

For discussion of multiple wheels vs multiple Tormeks and related, please continue in this thread:
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3656.0

I was a bit underwhelmed when he didn't correct the misalignment of the knife in the small knife jig.  I've only used mine a time or two and found the need to work the handle in the jig a bit to get the blade better aligned.  Interesting trick to back the stop a turn or two to change the angle to get the bevel widths the same.  He did not speak to how well centered the apex was after that, however. 

I was surprised to see him use the fine side of the stone grader to clean the SJ wheel.  I'm trying to remember if that is a recommended practice or if anyone does that.  I'd think it a bit coarse and would, over time, take off enough material to change the wheel diameter.  I have wondered a bit about the Nagura stone that I use and how it cleans the black stuff without take much if any of the stone away. 

I've been struggling, in my head, about the use of multiple Tormeks versus changing wheels.  I use only two wheels at the moment, the SB and SJ.  I change wheels on my single Tormek.  Soon (I hope) I will have three wheels (diamond) which will also need changing on a single Tormek.  I assume I will still use the SJ wheel after the diamond wheels, and while two diamond wheels may do it for some blades, I am sure there will be some that need more significant work and will require the use of the coarse diamond wheel (360), which could mean up to four wheel changes for a single blade.  Suddenly, a second Tormek is becoming more attractive.  I've also recently acquired a buffing machine and a paper wheel, so that would very likely change the mix at the finishing stage. 

I've only ever used a sharpening service once, at a local pub and supermarket, but I don't recall that he used but one wheel and then the leather honing wheel.  Since getting a Tormek and following discussions about setting the USB height for different angles, I seem to recall the guy did not change the USB for different knives, meaning he would have changes the bevel angles on some knives. But that raises the question in my mind he could do that so easily using only one wheel and not seeming to take a long time on any knife. 

At home, I work at my own pace, so wheel changes are not much of an issue.  However, my daughter manages a small farmer's market in the nearest "big" city, Baker City, OR. which, at 9720 pop., is by no means big. They have only about six tables (vendors) and appear to be struggling.  I was asked a couple months ago, before the marked opened, by my daughter if I wanted to set up a sharpening booth.  At the time, it was an emphatic "NO".  I am reconsidering that now, and that raises the issue of wheel changes in a different way: cycle time.

I think this could warrant it's own thread, so as to not bury it here or high-jack this thread, so I will start a new thread using my post here. 

Rick

[cbwx34]

I was a bit underwhelmed when he didn't correct the misalignment of the knife in the small knife jig.  I've only used mine a time or two and found the need to work the handle in the jig a bit to get the blade better aligned.  Interesting trick to back the stop a turn or two to change the angle to get the bevel widths the same.  He did not speak to how well centered the apex was after that, however. 

I was surprised to see him use the fine side of the stone grader to clean the SJ wheel.  I'm trying to remember if that is a recommended practice or if anyone does that.  I'd think it a bit coarse and would, over time, take off enough material to change the wheel diameter.  I have wondered a bit about the Nagura stone that I use and how it cleans the black stuff without take much if any of the stone away. 
...

I think the knife is actually bent in relation to the handle... so not sure it could be centered.  (It could be "canted" to make the bevels come out even... but probably more trouble than the Stop Collar adjustment he made).

Cleaning the wheel with the stone grader is what Tormek recommends.  Most in the forum have found better methods:  rust eraser, diamond plate, nagura stone.  Like you, I think the stone grader is too aggressive... rust eraser is my choice... cleans with little stone removal.

[RickKrung]

...snip...
Cleaning the wheel with the stone grader is what Tormek recommends.  Most in the forum have found better methods:  rust eraser, diamond plate, nagura stone.  Like you, I think the stone grader is too aggressive... rust eraser is my choice... cleans with little stone removal.

I got a set of rust erasers for that purpose, but promptly used them for their namesake, removing rust from a collet chuck for my lathe.  Contaminated them with oils and rust, so now I would need to order new ones or just continue using the Nagura stone, which has been my habit. 

Rick

[cbwx34]

I got a set of rust erasers for that purpose, but promptly used them for their namesake, removing rust from a collet chuck for my lathe.  Contaminated them with oils and rust, so now I would need to order new ones or just continue using the Nagura stone, which has been my habit. 

Rick

What Nagura?  Those can also vary in "grit/aggressiveness level"... some are little more than a cut up waterstone.

[RickKrung]

...snip...
What Nagura?  Those can also vary in "grit/aggressiveness level"... some are little more than a cut up waterstone.

I don't know.  There are not markings on the box to indicate grit. 


Rick

[cbwx34]

I don't know.  There are not markings on the box to indicate grit. 

Rick

Well THIS SITE lists it at 12000 grit... that'll work.

[RickKrung]

Thanks, I had no idea, especially that it was that fine.

Rick