Hi everyone I am new to the site and i have Supergrind 1200 rebuild/repair

[Jordhandson]

Hi to all this is my first post. I have finally acquired my first Tormek I think at a good price £100 ish I think good price as it came with a lot of jigs and bits and pieces, it totaly in pieces its an old supergrind 1200 the housing as your aware is plastic mine is broken in a number of places I have made a few enquires and it looks like the housing are no longer available, I have decided to make a metal housing. I was also surprised to see the "bearing" are only plastic, on rebuilding it I am thinking of turning some bronze or brass bearing given the low revolving speed I feel this would be ok.

What do others think of this idea?

I would appreciate the views and advice of the more experienced Tormekers on here.

Cheers Jordon
   

[Stickan]

Hi,
Welcome to the Forum.
Looks like a nice kit at a good price.
A short reply to your question ragarding the nylon bushings.
We have tested differnt bushings and the best solution in the long-run is our standard bushings.
Just wanted to save you some time and effort which you in the end will save many hours on.

All the best,
Stig

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Jordan.

I agree with Stig about the nylon bushings. One of the things you will realize after working with your Tormek is the different mindset between high speed dry grinding and lower speed wet grinding. Metal sleeve bushings are in the higher speed realm. I have them (original) in my grandfather's power tools from the 1930s. Keep them oiled and they last a long time.The nylon bushings are the same way for the Tormek.

I suggest you register your Tormek on the tormek website. You are past the warranty period, however, registering gives you access to the handbook (online and downloadable without charge) and some very good videos, also no charge. You also might want to make a note of the Tormek support email address, support@tormek.se   Support is managed by Stig. Part of the Tormek philosophy is providing excellent product support. Unlike most products, all of the latest jigs, accessories, and parts are compatable with your T3 and even older models.

An exploded parts diagram will help you discover how the parts go together. The Tormek is a simple machine. Upgrading the shaft in my first Tormek gave me a better understanding of "the innerds". After you complete your restoration you will have a deep understanding of what makes the Tormek tick.

Do keep us posted on your progress. Do not be shy about asking questions. Do not hesitate to contact support. Be sure to ask support about your housing and options.

best of luck,

Ken

[Jordhandson]

Cheers for replies Stig and Ken, nylon bushes ordered and are on the way. I do have the 5th edition manual or book very useful. My progress so far has been making the housing I used the old housing to take all the measurements and templates I had some 3mm off cuts of plate in the shop welded it up, I have machined a couple of trailer suspension bushes for the support housing I can still use the locking screw for the universal support. I have put it together in the welded state to make doubly sure everything was good. Its had a couple coats of zinc oxide primer and 3 coats of paint unfortunately i have ran out of blue paint I thought I had some old ford tractor blue left (I restore old tractors) ford blue is pretty similar to the old housing , I do have quite a bit of Massey Ferguson red left hence today the housing has had 3 coats of it. Your probably cringing regarding the color but, hey as long as works good im not fussed on color..

Will keep you posted as to the outcome..
Cheers Jord

[cbwx34]

I actually like the color.  Very nice. 🙂

[Jordhandson]

thanks for the compliment, I am hoping that I can get the labels of cleanly and with the new white wheel it shouldnt look to bad, its amazing what you can do with a plasma cutter and a mig welder.

Cheers

[Jordhandson]

I have another question someone may be able to help me with, any idea what the thread size is on the Universal Support from looking at images it looks like an M12 I have the old slide one and I am looking to adapt it or thread it to get finer adjustment.

Cheers

[cbwx34]

I have another question someone may be able to help me with, any idea what the thread size is on the Universal Support from looking at images it looks like an M12 I have the old slide one and I am looking to adapt it or thread it to get finer adjustment.

Cheers

There's a bit of info in this thread... Threading a Universal Support, which also may lead to more info.

I believe the thread pitch is 1.5 and uses Acme style threads according to Tormek...

The Universal Support is the basis for all Tormek jigs. US-105 has a square cut Acme style thread which prevents damage by the locking screws and a Micro Adjust with scale for precise setting of the edge angle and cutting depth.

[Ken S]

The thread is M12 Acme (pitch 1.5mm). I suspect it will be difficult and expensive to locate an M12 Acme thread die. As a benchmark for your decision, keep in mind that a new US-105, the Tormek support bar with microadjust nut, costs $46 US. If you happen to already have a standard hex thread die in either half inch or M12, and the skill to use it, you may be able to do the conversion for less. You will still not have a flat Acme thread. If you have purchase the thread die, or even more expense, a die holder, also or hire the work done, a new US-105 is probably your best bet. If you go that route, you will have a second support bar, which can be useful.

Ken

[Jordhandson]

Thanks to you both regarding the thread size I was unaware what it was called I spoke to father about it and he called it Trapezoidal ACME Thread which as luck would have it I have a couple of old wind up legs off a caravan are the correct size, i may chop the old down piece off weld on some thread when i get time.
Anyway update, to say i am pleased with it is an understatement today i put it into the new housing and i am really pleased with it fitted the new nylon bushed with grease they arrived this morning father siad as i have made such a good job of it he is buying me a new grinding wheel 200mm going by the book the one that on it is only 150mm so not a lot of good. I was quite surprised to see the shaft eaten away with rust so much, I built it back up with weld then turned it down to the required size. the only real problem was getting the label of without tearing it hot air gun and very gentle It went slightly out of shape but i can live with it. I did have a little play with it this afternoon and cannot wait till i get my new wheel on.
When i get a bit of time to spare I am going to make a metal bigger water tray or trough with side extensions to stop any water going every ware.
Anyway just to thanks all for your help and advice there a couple of pictures enjoy

Cheers

Jorden 

[Herman Trivilino]

Impressive work, Jordan. I hope the shaft of your US is aligned properly. The horizontal bar must be parallel with the main shaft. Otherwise you will have trouble grinding square ends on your chisels and plane irons.

[tshiker]

Fantastic job Jorden! I love seeing old tools and equipment brought back from the grave! Bravo!!

[Jordhandson]

Cheers for the compliment Herman and tshiker , yes I paralleled the support from the main shaft as I have learnt from some post on here the stones can go out of shape, the stone i have is no good and fathers got me a new one coming woopy.
This afternoon I spent a spare  hour and a half and nocked up a water trough to suit the machine will get it painted hopefully tomorrow.


Cheers Jord   

[RickKrung]

The thread is M12 Acme (pitch 1.5mm).  I suspect it will be difficult and expensive to locate an M12 Acme thread die.  ...snip...

Ken

I wondered why it looked so squared off on the peaks of the threads.  Never thought about it being Acme. 

You're right, it is difficult to find.  I did a Google search and came up with Acme taps, but not a single die. 

Rick

[Jordhandson]

Hi all finally got the Tormek wet stone sharpener finished today, I made a metal water trough yesterday today I gave it a couple coats of paint, while that was drying I had an off cut of galvanized sheet, so made a drain tray which gave me a chance to use the bead roller Ive have been making, for the first attempt at bead rolling i am quite pleased with the roller, dont half stiffen up the metal and give quite a good finish, the tray slots on the side of the trough and catches any water dripping off the longer blades, I had a old stand that came with some thing we purchased so have decided to turn it into a sharpening station ive welded on some casters, bolted on the double ended grinder, will fit a couple of shelves on it sometime, it will be handy keeping all the sharpening jigs and things together. Overall I am very pleased with the whole turnout. Just want the wheel to arrive now

Cheers to all
Jord