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The one change you should make to the Tormek...

Started by cbwx34, December 04, 2017, 10:15:18 PM

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Ken S

I have often stated that the Tormek is a very versatile machine in skilled hands. This topic is a fine example of the source of that versatility. When imaginative minds freely collaborate, great things are possible.

I have thought about using Tormek's Oneway adaptor and the Oneway slides to provide this horizontal and vertical positioning. I believe it would work reasonably well. The drawback of my idea is that it depends on accurately positioning the Oneway guides. The Jan/CB design eliminates that need by mounting the bracket on the Tormek sleeves, which also makes it readily removable. I think the Jan/CB design is the clear winner.

Good work!

My granddaughter is awake and has nicely requested to use the ipad. Must dash.

Ken

cbwx34

Quote from: Jan on December 09, 2017, 11:39:59 AM
CB, thanks for sharing the images, really nice arrangement!  :)

I have enjoyed your various gadgets. Yes, the horizontal position is more comfortable then other generally inclined positions.

Sharpening away often enables to detect the burr sooner than when grinding towards the edge.

Jan

Good point and Thank you!  :)

Quote from: Ken S on December 09, 2017, 12:31:01 PM
I have often stated that the Tormek is a very versatile machine in skilled hands. This topic is a fine example of the source of that versatility. When imaginative minds freely collaborate, great things are possible.

I have thought about using Tormek's Oneway adaptor and the Oneway slides to provide this horizontal and vertical positioning. I believe it would work reasonably well. The drawback of my idea is that it depends on accurately positioning the Oneway guides. The Jan/CB design eliminates that need by mounting the bracket on the Tormek sleeves, which also makes it readily removable. I think the Jan/CB design is the clear winner.

Good work!

My granddaughter is awake and has nicely requested to use the ipad. Must dash.

Ken

Thanks... although I'm just the copier in this case.  ;)
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Herman Trivilino

Quote from: cbwx34 on December 04, 2017, 10:15:18 PM
Even adjusting the clamp as far away as possible, doesn't adequately adjust for this...




Instead of rotating the jig about a vertical axis, rotate it about the jig handle. In other words, adjust the roll rather than the yaw.
Origin: Big Bang

cbwx34

Quote from: Herman Trivilino on December 09, 2017, 04:28:12 PM
Instead of rotating the jig about a vertical axis, rotate it about the jig handle. In other words, adjust the roll rather than the yaw.

Thanks for the input.

This was mentioned earlier, that "lifting the handle" (essentially what you're saying here), is an option.  For some knives that will work, in particular those that are longer and/or don't have a lot of belly.  Many kitchen knives for example can be sharpened this way, (and seems to be the common example).  (There's also a lengthy discussion of this in the "To Pivot or Not To Pivot" thread, for those who haven't read it).

But knives that are shorter, and/or have more of a curve in the belly to tip area, won't always track properly, no matter where in the clamp they're set.  I also mentioned it's not a natural movement for the knife.  I'll expand on both a bit.

One issue of lifting the handle is that it will only properly follow the curve for very few knives.  This is probably best exemplified in Jan's Template for setting the knife...

...

... which gives an idea of the radius.  Many knives are "close enough" that the minor difference isn't noticeable.

But on knife with more of a curve, or that don't match the radius correctly, the actual shape of the knife can change.  Here's a couple of pictures to show an example...





... you can see, if you look at the tip area, that shape starts to change.  Although the knife still has a tip, and may not be noticeable for several sharpenings. over time the angle between the spine and edge becomes greater.  It's also not "natural for the knife" because it doesn't follow how the knife wants to cut.

The other reason is that pivoting the knife is more of a natural movement for the sharpener... since you're both imitating how you might cut with the knife, and, if you sharpen with other methods... may make the transition to the Tormek a bit easier.

That's why, in addition to the other reasons given earlier in the thread, I think a smaller pivot area is better.   :)
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Herman Trivilino

I agree that narrowing the collar, as you have done, is a good option. I just wanted to mention the additional option of lifting the handle. Sometimes one would have to do both.
Origin: Big Bang

canuck

Quote from: cbwx34 on December 08, 2017, 05:20:19 PM
The main reason for the setup... when sharpening on this side of the Tormek, it puts the knife in a better and more comfortable position.  But there are some "clues" in the pictures (angle marks on the stone, the "chopstick", etc...), of some other reasons (especially for the commercial sharpener).  More to come...

Very interesting thread. Thanks for sharing these tips. So what is the "chopstick" for?

cbwx34

Quote from: Herman Trivilino on December 10, 2017, 11:08:35 PM
I agree that narrowing the collar, as you have done, is a good option. I just wanted to mention the additional option of lifting the handle. Sometimes one would have to do both.

Ah.... cool.  (I guess saying "Instead of..." threw me off).  ;)

Quote from: canuck on December 11, 2017, 01:33:37 AM
Very interesting thread. Thanks for sharing these tips. So what is the "chopstick" for?

Thanks.  The chopstick is used to "index" the wheel to set the angle.  Described a bit here (although that particular implementation turned out not to work).  I'll tie all this together eventually.   8)
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cbwx34

Quote from: Ken S on December 06, 2017, 04:37:34 AM
It's too late to go down to the shop and probably wake my family. I don't suppose the thread on the knife jig is 12mm. If so, the stop on the square edge jig would serve as a collar.

I got my hands on a SE-77 Collar... it doesn't appear it'll work, at least not without some modification...



... the knob hits the USB, when you flip it over.

But the setup I got (thru McMaster Carr (Product #: 96016A353 & 57485K69) works well...



... and has a bit more edge or "lip" on it. :)


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Crusty

That MC collar would be perfect with a hex key style grub screw like the drill stops

Ken S

I agree with Crusty. To the best of my knowledge, all of the Tormek knobs use an m6 thread. I have accumulated an odd assortment of m6 metric knobs, bolts, etc.

Ken

cbwx34

Quote from: Crusty on December 18, 2017, 02:06:42 AM
That MC collar would be perfect with a hex key style grub screw like the drill stops

You may be right... and that's actually what it comes with.  The main reason I'm trying the knob screw is so that I can make adjustments easier if I need to.  (Still experimenting a bit).

Thanks for the input.

Quote from: Ken S on December 18, 2017, 02:19:50 AM
I agree with Crusty. To the best of my knowledge, all of the Tormek knobs use an m6 thread. I have accumulated an odd assortment of m6 metric knobs, bolts, etc.

Ken

Yup... my collection is starting to grow as well.   ;)
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Crusty

Have a look at Ruland Quick Clamping shaft collars for speedy setup and adjustability, outside diameter is starting to get large on them though

cbwx34

Quote from: Crusty on December 18, 2017, 03:51:23 AM
Have a look at Ruland Quick Clamping shaft collars for speedy setup and adjustability, outside diameter is starting to get large on them though

Thanks... but the outer diameter on the one I found (https://www.ruland.com/MQCL-12-A.html) is approaching the original stop jig width... one point I'm trying to avoid.
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Ken S

CB,

There are Allen (hex key) heads which project much less than plastic knobs. I believe they are called socket cap screws. They come in various screw thread lengths. M6 is a very common thread. You would still want an Allen wrench for final tightening. Finger tightening would handle most of your adjustments. As I recall, Allen wrenches are also make in screwdriver configurations.

Ken

Yes, a couple of these have joined my misc parts for Tormek collection over the years.  :)

cbwx34

Quote from: Ken S on December 18, 2017, 11:31:19 AM
CB,

There are Allen (hex key) heads which project much less than plastic knobs. I believe they are called socket cap screws. They come in various screw thread lengths. M6 is a very common thread. You would still want an Allen wrench for final tightening. Finger tightening would handle most of your adjustments. As I recall, Allen wrenches are also make in screwdriver configurations.

Ken

Yes, a couple of these have joined my misc parts for Tormek collection over the years.  :)

Thanks... I'll keep them in mind.  (I was trying these to avoid using an allen wrench).  So far, so good! ;)
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