a new way to calculate knife jig set up

[Ken S]

Oops........I neglected to include entering the Projection (at least this time).

I think one must decide between simplicity and speed or more refined accuracy. The two are not mutually exclusive; I believe the well trained Tormek sharpener has both tools at his ready command. 

I have a kenjig in my Tormek work station and Wootz' program "on speed dial" on my laptop.

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

The program is sophisticated, but easy to use. Initially, one selects the model of Tormek being used, T4, T7, or T8. The program now remembers the choice for future use. The user iputs the grinding wheel diameter in millimeters and fractions of a millimeter. Next the angle is input in degrees and fractions of a degree. The program displays the distance between the universal support and the top of the Tormek.

Wootz, why not output the distance between the US and the surface of the grindstone instead of the top of the Tormek? It seems this would make things easier as you wouldn't need to worry about the type of Tormek.

[wootz]

For the sake of better precision, Herman

[RickKrung]

For an easy and accurate setting of the universal support – grindstone distance I have modified the "Starrett combination square". This has been intended for Dutchman and kenjig concepts. For more info see https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2879.msg15575#msg15575

The same tool can also be used for setting the Universal Support height above the top of the Tormek housing in the frame of Wootz bevel angle setting procedure.

Jan

I have combination squares that could be used but I wanted something that could be dedicated to the Tormek.  So, taking something from my limited experience with pattern making, I bought a "wheel marking depth gauge", graduated in both inch and metric.  Unfortunately, it doesn't extend far enough for some setting off the USB, so I grabbed a piece of 5/16" stainless rod from my stock rack and made a 9" shaft.  The new shaft is not graduated at all, that doesn't really matter because I use my calipers to set the distance and set the making gage off of the calipers.  I have a 6" Mitutoyo electronic caliper that reads out in metric also, so use that for setting the knife jib distance, but I only a 12" dial caliper for USB distances over 6" and it is only inch, so I have to do the inch/metric conversion and then set the extended shaft marking gage for the USB height settings.  I've been using WOOTZ's software, which is really sweet. 

Rick

P.S. I tried uploading a couple photos of these, but the system said they didn't pass security and couldn't be uploaded. 

[Ken S]

Rick,

I may have the same wheel marking gage:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=59455

Is that it?

Mine is the original uncalibrated version. It's a nice tool, although today I would purchase the micro adjust version. I was setting it up this afternoon to scribe a line 2 3/8" in with plate aluminum. Getting the cutter exactly is the cut line on my Starrett rule was difficult without the microadjust. I think your calipers would set the distance more accurately than the rod calibrations.

Did you leave the rod end square or slightly rounded?

Clever idea; keep up the good work! It seems a good match for Wootz' program.

Ken

[RickKrung]

Rick,

I may have the same wheel marking gage:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=59455

Is that it?

Mine is the original uncalibrated version. It's a nice tool, although today I would purchase the micro adjust version. I was setting it up this afternoon to scribe a line 2 3/8" in with plate aluminum. Getting the cutter exactly is the cut line on my Starrett rule was difficult without the microadjust. I think your calipers would set the distance more accurately than the rod calibrations.

Did you leave the rod end square or slightly rounded?

Clever idea; keep up the good work! It seems a good match for Wootz' program.

Ken

Ken,

Cool.  Yes, it is the same, but different.  The one I have is both inch and metric.  I did not know about the micro adjust. Just ordered a metric micro adjust.  Thanks for the heads up on that. 

Rick

[Ken S]

Rick,

The Lee Valley tool is really a marking gage, a very nice one! It would made a very nice depth gage for our purposes with a longer rod.

Ken.

[RickKrung]

I have combination squares that could be used but I wanted something that could be dedicated to the Tormek.  So, taking something from my limited experience with pattern making, I bought a "wheel marking depth gauge", graduated in both inch and metric.  Unfortunately, it doesn't extend far enough for some setting off the USB, so I grabbed a piece of 5/16" stainless rod from my stock rack and made a 9" shaft.  The new shaft is not graduated at all, that doesn't really matter because I use my calipers to set the distance and set the making gage off of the calipers.  I have a 6" Mitutoyo electronic caliper that reads out in metric also, so use that for setting the knife jib distance, but I only a 12" dial caliper for USB distances over 6" and it is only inch, so I have to do the inch/metric conversion and then set the extended shaft marking gage for the USB height settings.  I've been using WOOTZ's software, which is really sweet. 

Rick

P.S. I tried uploading a couple photos of these, but the system said they didn't pass security and couldn't be uploaded.

Trying to upload images taken with my iPhone, downsized in email transmission and not further modified on my computer.

Rick

[cbwx34]

Glad it finally worked. 

Looks like a good way of setting it.

[RickKrung]

Replacement Angle Master Storage Plate just fell off.  I'm not using it much so I think I'll just leave it off and store the AM with the other jigs and such.  For knives, I am primariy using Wootz's app and wheel marking gauges. 

I received a Lee Valley micro-adjust metric marking gauge today.  Nice unit, but I found the graduations to be about 1 mm off.  When set to 139 mm, it is actually 137.8 mm measured with a Mitutoyo in/mm digital caliper. I'd have thought it would be better than that. I"ll have to remember the error when setting it or use calipers.  I may just use the micro-adjust head on the 9" ungraduated rod for setting the USB height. 

Rick

[RichColvin]

Rick,

In the 2nd photo which shows the Tormek, I see a metal lathe in the background.  Have you tried to sharpen your lathe tools on the Tormek ?  If so, any luck / thoughts / guidance you can share ?

Kind regards,
Rich

[RickKrung]

Rick,

In the 2nd photo which shows the Tormek, I see a metal lathe in the background.  Have you tried to sharpen your lathe tools on the Tormek ?  If so, any luck / thoughts / guidance you can share ?

Kind regards,
Rich

Rich,

No, I have not, part because I understand I need a different stone.  But, I wonder about that because my drills are all HSS and they can be sharpened on the standard stone. Another reason is that I don't use many ground HSS cutting tools, mostly insert tooling, both HSS and carbide.  But...  I want to learn. And third, I just haven't had much time for playing with the lathe lately, and that is in part due to me spending more of my free time fiddling with the T8.  Is that circular logic, or what? 

Further, I never learned how to free-hand grind HSS cutters very well, so have not attempted much.  But... and there is always a "but".  I make bamboo fly fishing rods.  I also make and sell a tool for making the wood reel seat mounting insert for fishing rods (more precisely, I have the parts made and I assemble them into the tool [mandrel]).  For turning of a recess in the wood reel seat cylinder, I had ground HSS cutters with a 3/8" radiused nose.  I had 10 ground, cost me $300 and I sold 9 of them for $30 ea.  Now, if I could rough them on a traditional high speed grinder and finish them on the Tormek, and still sell them for $30, I'd have look at it.  Another but.  There are carbide circular inserts available, so i don't think it pencils out. 

For that one remaining 3/8" radius cutter, I will sharpen it with the Tormek, but I do not yet have the proper jig.  But I do have the toolrest jig, which it seems could be used. 

Rick

[RichColvin]

Well, you know, I have a hobby metal lathe (7" x 14", from Grizzly), and I've made a number of parts for sharpening on it.  Probably something to think about ....

That lathe of yours looks like it is really solid !

Rich

[RickKrung]

Well, you know, I have a hobby metal lathe (7" x 14", from Grizzly), and I've made a number of parts for sharpening on it.  Probably something to think about ....

That lathe of yours looks like it is really solid !

Rich

Solid and precise.  Monarch 10EE, but it actually swings just under 13".  One of two "ultimate" lathes for a home shop machinist. 

I started in 2000 with the same type of lathe, (7x10, then 7x14" Grizzly) and a Grizzly MiniMill, graduated to an Atlas 10" lathe, then South Bend 9A lathe.  The big jump was to a Rivett 1020 at 1500 lb in 2007.  Full restoration, 1941 vintage.  Unfortunately, it got dumped on its face during moving a bit over a year ago.  Surprisingly minor damage. But I opted to graduate to the Monarch, also, fully restored, 1946 version, with DRO.

Rick

[cbwx34]

Replacement Angle Master Storage Plate just fell off.  I'm not using it much so I think I'll just leave it off and store the AM with the other jigs and such.  For knives, I am primariy using Wootz's app and wheel marking gauges. 

I received a Lee Valley micro-adjust metric marking gauge today.  Nice unit, but I found the graduations to be about 1 mm off.  When set to 139 mm, it is actually 137.8 mm measured with a Mitutoyo in/mm digital caliper. I'd have thought it would be better than that. I"ll have to remember the error when setting it or use calipers.  I may just use the micro-adjust head on the 9" ungraduated rod for setting the USB height. 

Rick

Superglue has held for me... so far anyway, if you change your mind.

May seem like a silly question, but how do you know which measurement is accurate?  (What's the saying... a man with two watches never knows the exact time).