Practical Application of Table Data in the "Grinding Angle Adjustment" booklet

[RickKrung]

I've downloaded and studied Ton's excellent article on setting the grinding angle based on measurements of the length of the jig and distance from the support bar to the stone. No way I could come up with this. Excellent work.

Couple questions.

Fisrt. Is there a conversion of the tables to inch dimensions?  If not, I can do it, but it would be nice to avoid duplication of other's work.

Second. In practice, how have folks been determining/measuring the distance "S"?  The distance from the stone to the centerline of the Adjustable Clamp (AC) shaft immediately above the support shaft.  The distance from the support shaft to the centerline of the AC is about 6mm (0.236"). This difference is not accounted for in the article tables, at least as far as I have can tell. 6 mm is greater than the increments in Ton's table for the "S" dimension. Do you just shift a column/row in the table? Or?

Wondering,

Rick

[Dutchman]

I have added an Open Document Spreadsheet (For the office package OpenOffice)
to the documents in https://onedrive.live.com/?id=4AF25953CEF4952D%21488&cid=4AF25953CEF4952D
I do not know if it will work in Excel.
You'll find there also a photo of measuring the distance to the stone. In my opinion, the accuracy of that method is good enough

[cbwx34]

Fisrt. Is there a conversion of the tables to inch dimensions?  If not, I can do it, but it would be nice to avoid duplication of other's work.

Rick

After I spent a bit of time here... I found it easier to start using a metric ruler.  (May sound like I'm kidding, but it made it much easier to follow and try out the different ideas).

[Jan]

I have added an Open Document Spreadsheet (For the office package OpenOffice)
to the documents in https://onedrive.live.com/?id=4AF25953CEF4952D%21488&cid=4AF25953CEF4952D
I do not know if it will work in Excel.
You'll find there also a photo of measuring the distance to the stone. In my opinion, the accuracy of that method is good enough

Ton, your spreadsheet works in Excel also. 

Rick, the accuracy of Ton's tables is sufficient for majority of practical applications. If you for some reasons need 100% geometrical accuracy read reply#14 at https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2639.msg14298#msg14298

Jan

[Ken S]

Rick,

I decided quite a while back that the Tormek is a metric machine. For my own work, I use only metric with the Tormek. (I live in Ohio, USA, not exactly metric land.) I would prefer to have my posts in metric, but usually include both system measurements. I advise you to go metric for precise work with your Tormek.

Dutchman's tables have only recently begun to get part of the deserved recognition. They are certsinly not limited to knives. I hope this trend will continue.

I am in the "accuracy is good enough" camp. I am more interested in consistency and repeatability. With my kenjig, my goal was to allow beginners, occasional sharpeners, and busy professional sharpeners to achieve consistent bevels with a minimum of set up time.

Ken

[RickKrung]

Thanks Guys,

The table does work in Excel. Thanks.  Thanks also for the links to the accuracy discussion and the embedded link.  I've printed those threads as PDFs and will study them offline. 

Going entirely metric on the Tormek was rolling around in my head, but I hadn't made up my mind. Your comments have concluded me on that.  Dang. might have to get more tools 

Ken, where in Ohio?  I was born in Dayton and only lived there one year, but still have an affinity.

I may have some difficulty with the "good enough" approach, but I definitely am into "consistency and repeatability". I am a hobby machinist mostly but do some woodworking now that I'm a GramPa, but I do like accuracy and precision.  I'm interested in learning about your kenjig.  Could you post a link, please? 

Thanks again,

Rick

[cbwx34]

I'm interested in learning about your kenjig.  Could you post a link, please? 

Rick

Click the link in my signature... kenjig reference is in there too.   

[Ken S]

My post must be lost in pixel land.

CB,
Thanks for posting the kenjig document on your website; that is a very convenient way to locate it.

Rick,
I live in Columbus. My wife and I moved here several years ago to be near our grandchildren.

As a machinist, you know that nothing is "exact", only "within tolerance" or not. While I fully appreciate the precision of finely machined tools and products, my "within tolerance" zone for things which have been hand sharpened for centuries is a bit more tolerant.

Keep posting.

Ken

[RickKrung]

My post must be lost in pixel land.

CB,
Thanks for posting the kenjig document on your website; that is a very convenient way to locate it.

Rick,
I live in Columbus. My wife and I moved here several years ago to be near our grandchildren.

As a machinist, you know that nothing is "exact", only "within tolerance" or not. While I fully appreciate the precision of finely machined tools and products, my "within tolerance" zone for things which have been hand sharpened for centuries is a bit more tolerant.

Keep posting.

Ken

Ken,

Like you, I recently (well, 11 months ago) moved from Portland, OR, where I had lived for 41 years (39 in the same house), to Halfway, OR to be near my granddaughter.  Halfway is a town of 300 people, in a ranching valley in far, far eastern OR, but the population of the dispersed ranching population is likely equal to the town's.  Major change, but I love it.  There is not even a stop light here.  If I have to wait for two cars at a stop sign, it is a traffic jam. 

Yes, I do know about tolerances and "good enough".  I simply enjoy working as closely as I can.  I do appreciate your comment about things having been hand sharpened for centuries as well. 

I've been studying some of the threads on your kenjig and others and will embark on making the kenjig soon.  Great stuff.

Rick

[Ken S]

Rick,

You will spend more time studying than it will take to make one. (Thst's a good thing; then you will understand the theory. The rest is easy.)

Cut a piece of cardboard into a rectangle 6" by 1 1/2". Starting from one of the short sides, measure 139mm and draw a line. This is your Projection. Then draw a line parallel with one of the long sides about a half inch from the edge. Using Dutchman's tables, I found that with 139mm Projection and a 250mm diameter grinding wheel, a groove 80mm long sets the Distance. Measure 80mm and cut out the groove.

You now have a working kenjig.

I generally make them from cut offs of Baltic birch plywood. I generally make up several, including "blanks" at a time, the set up requiring more time than the sawing. I have given away several.

Ken