Quickly Setting the Angle when using the Knife Jig(s)

[Jan]

The distance 29.3 mm is measured from the shaft central line to the base of the T7 housing. Wootz uses the name "constant vertical" for it.

It is a pity that Wootz script disappeared from the thread. Let me know if you are interested in it and I will try to find a copy.

Jan

[Ken S]

I have found studying past posts an invaluable source of information. Wootz is very innovative, and also does a very good job of discovering and evaluating things. In his posts he discusses variations on the universal support, including Robin Bailey's extended supportand Tormek's US 400, designed for the Tormek 4000, a specialized machine (now out of production, and predecessor of the T2). I have found Robin Bailey's support useful and plan to purchase a US400. I have heard that Tormek plans to make a limited production run of them.

My main frustration with the forum format (all forums) is that some valuable information is ephemeral, and quickly disappears into the past. I have made printed copies of some posts; I wish I had done this more extensively.

Ken

[cbwx34]

The distance 29.3 mm is measured from the shaft central line to the base of the T7 housing. Wootz uses the name "constant vertical" for it.

It is a pity that Wootz script disappeared from the thread. Let me know if you are interested in it and I will try to find a copy.

Jan

Thanks for the additional info. (I don't think I can use the script).

I have found studying past posts an invaluable source of information. Wootz is very innovative, and also does a very good job of discovering and evaluating things. In his posts he discusses variations on the universal support, including Robin Bailey's extended supportand Tormek's US 400, designed for the Tormek 4000, a specialized machine (now out of production, and predecessor of the T2). I have found Robin Bailey's support useful and plan to purchase a US400. I have heard that Tormek plans to make a limited production run of them.

My main frustration with the forum format (all forums) is that some valuable information is ephemeral, and quickly disappears into the past. I have made printed copies of some posts; I wish I had done this more extensively.

Ken

I'm interested in the US400... please keep me posted.  (I think the one from Bailey is no longer available).

Definitely a lot of good info in previous threads!

[Jan]

Some two years ago I have posted about my flat platform prototype. For blades of the same thickness you set the bevel angle only once. You can sharpen in both directions. https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2562.135

It works fine, but currently for some reasons I prefer to sharpen using the knife jig guided by the USB. For angle setting I use the kenjig concept.

Jan

[cbwx34]

Some two years ago I have posted about my flat platform prototype. For blades of the same thickness you set the bevel angle only once. You can sharpen in both directions. https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2562.135

It works fine, but currently for some reasons I prefer to sharpen using the knife jig guided by the USB. For angle setting I use the kenjig concept.

Jan

I saw that... (and in fact was just writing a post related to that). 

[cbwx34]

Setup.... Part 3?...

I've pretty much settled in on using this as my current setup... sort of a combination of several ideas.  (See attached picture).

• The USB that the knife jig rides on, moves straight up and down in the vertical holder (left side of top pictures).  I got a 500mm bar, and attached it to the upper USB, for enough length to sharpen using the knife jig.
• I sharpen with the knife level, using where it contacts the stone to set the angle.  Since I'm sharpening with the knife level, I can set it with a digital angle gauge (as in the picture), or, I also measured the distance between the 2 USBs for various angles, and can just set it with a caliper.
  
• I use a laser as a guide, so I maintain the angle by sharpening just below the laser line. (From the Laser Guided thread).
• I removed the stop collar on the knife jig... this allows me to keep the knife along the laser line. (Basically a "guided freehand" or platform guide - similar to other guided sharpeners).  (Shown in the bottom 3 pictures). (From the later posts in the "To pivot or not to pivot" thread).
• I can easily move it between the T-4 and the "Supergrind" as needed.

Anyway, so far, so good.    The nice thing is, if you're sharpening several knives at a set angle, there's no need to measure or adjust anything.  I did that yesterday... sharpened a block of knives at a friends house, various shapes & sizes all at 15 deg.  Just clamp the knife and start sharpening (and the belly/tip setup isn't as critical, within reason, since there's no real pivot).  (I'm still debating this setup vs. the setup I had in Reply 25... with some modifications I have here).  (Still a Work In Progress).

One little "bonus" of sharpening with the wheel turning away... the water never "rides up" on the knife and travels down the blade... less mess. 

Comments/feedback welcome!

[Kavik]

So, is there still some combination of lifting and pivoting depending on the slope from the belly to the tip? Or do you keep it flat and just pivot to stay at the line, since there's no collar stopping you from moving it further forward now as you rotate?

It's a very interesting approach to changing the "angle of attack", so to speak, to make the process more comfortable. .. But man, that's a LOT of parts to combine for this setup lol

[cbwx34]

So, is there still some combination of lifting and pivoting depending on the slope from the belly to the tip? Or do you keep it flat and just pivot to stay at the line, since there's no collar stopping you from moving it further forward now as you rotate?

It's a very interesting approach to changing the "angle of attack", so to speak, to make the process more comfortable. .. But man, that's a LOT of parts to combine for this setup lol

Depends on the knife, but the short answer... most knives I can just rotate the knife, keeping it parallel (or "flat"), and keeping it at the LOC.  Nice not dealing with the collar at all... like anything else, just takes a bit of practice.  Like sharpening freehand on a stone, I can tell if a knife needs a bit of adjusting in the belly/tip area, and can adjust accordingly.  I liked how quick I could get thru the block of knives... just clamp and go.  About as fast as freehand, with the benefit of a bit of a guide.

It's actually only 3 parts (2nd USB, 2nd Tool Support... basically a "Bench Grinder Mount" kit)... and the rod, (and a way to put it together... I used what I had avail.... hose clamps).  (eBay can be your friend here).

[Kavik]

Plus the tool test with mounting holes tapped into it, and the vertical usb and the laser mounted to that, and the digital angle finder....
Not that it's a big deal, or a bad thing, just made me chuckle a bit

I think I'm missing something here though.... How are you seeing the angle?
I get that the angle finder can easily adjust from your starting point, but how do you find what angle the wheel is hitting the blade when the blade is kept parallel to the table? This would change depending on the height of the usb, right?

[cbwx34]

Plus the tool test with mounting holes tapped into it, and the vertical usb and the laser mounted to that, and the digital angle finder....
Not that it's a big deal, or a bad thing, just made me chuckle a bit

I think I'm missing something here though.... How are you seeing the angle?
I get that the angle finder can easily adjust from your starting point, but how do you find what angle the wheel is hitting the blade when the blade is kept parallel to the table? This would change depending on the height of the usb, right?

Ah... good point... forgot about the tool rest.  (I didn't tap it.. just drilled and bolt/nut combo).  Digital angle finder... optional... although you would need some way to find level. (I have one from other stuff).  I've also used a simple bubble level (as long as the machine is level which it usually is).

The angle is set based on the Laser Guided thread.  You adjust the USB to set the knife parallel to the angle you want to sharpen at.

Really not as complicated as it's sounding...     Maybe when Tormek puts together a "Laser Guided Knife Sharpening Kit"... it'll be easier.   

[Kavik]

Aha! I knew I was missing something... Forgot to follow that link to the laser guided setup after finishing reading that post lol

I still gotta get around to ordering a laser line, but I'm thinking it'll be easy enough (and cheaper) to mount a rod through a hole drilled in the top of the machine. Not needing to buy another usb, and leaving both usb mounts free to use. Just as a thought 

Thanks for sharing this idea!

[cbwx34]

Aha! I knew I was missing something... Forgot to follow that link to the laser guided setup after finishing reading that post lol

I still gotta get around to ordering a laser line, but I'm thinking it'll be easy enough (and cheaper) to mount a rod through a hole drilled in the top of the machine. Not needing to buy another usb, and leaving both usb mounts free to use. Just as a thought 

Thanks for sharing this idea!

Thanks.  No doubt there's better ways of mounting the laser... this just happened to be what I had.  I do like taking it off though, or sometimes just pivoting it out of the way.  Yours is a good idea... although you'll need a flat surface to stick the laser to (if you get a magnetic one).  The USB I was using has a "flat side" (not all do), but even with that I ended up adding a wider flat piece of metal... worked a bit better.