What's your workflow for multiple chisels? New to Tormek.

[Jan]

Congrats to your nice result. 

When mastered, please demonstrate the sharpening procedure to your students. It may positively influence their whole woodworking careers. 

Jan

[Ken S]

Finally, the set up post. Imagine a triangle. One side is the Distance from the top of the universal support to the grinding wheel. One side is the Protrusion from the side of the support bar away from the grinding wheel to the edge of the blade. The third side (imagine it is flat) is the cord of the grinding wheel between the Distance point and the Protrusion point.

If you remove the chisel or plane blade and duplicate the lengths of Distance and Protrusion, the bevel angle would be identical. This all relates to trigonometry, which I have not studied since 1966. Fortunately, we have some very capable math people on the forum.

If you decide upon a fixed Distance or Protrusion, the side not chosen will remain constant once you find it. My preference, as stated in an earlier post, is to set the Distance using the TNT-100. Then I find the protrusion using the Anglemaster. Once you find this, make a gage. It can be as simple as a piece of cardboard with a pencil line. A stop block will require a couple minutes to make up, and be more permanent.

If you prefer to fix the protrusion, set it for whatever length you desire. Fifty mm is a good starting point. Use the anglemaster to set the Distance. (I have made up a PDF with photos explaining this. It is posted somewhere on the forum. The easiest way to find it is to send me a PM with your email address and I will email you the report with photos. Or, one of the members more skilled with searching than I am may post a link.)

Once you reach this point, set the Distance. There is no need to change this. It will be the same for all of your chisels and plane blades. If you do change it for some reason, your kenjig (made up from a scrap piece of wood or cardboard in less time than you spend reading the article.

Set the Protrusion of your first chisel and sharpen.

For the second and following chisels, just set the Protrusion using the piece of cardboard or your stop block.

Follow the last two paragraphs if you need to sharpen chisels at a later date. No need for the black marker or the angle master. Your bevels will be identical. You can store your black marker and anglemaster.

(For the inner teacher in you, this procedure is an excellent example of the value of trig.)

Please post your thoughts, or questions if I have not stated things clearly. This really needs a youtube, however, my last moving picture experience was 16mm football films in high school.


Ken

ps Here is the link to my PDF. If you skip through to page six of seven, you will see a photo showing the Distance setting tool in use. The photo shows the knife setting tool. A tool like this for chisels would be shorter. The principle is the same. Just make the initial measurement with a combination square and transfer it to the wooden (or cardboard) tool. The PDF explains the process focused on knives, however, the process is the same for chisels and planes.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bye-818SN85DdzB3bU9aUU81eTg/view?usp=sharing

[LCAC]

Thanks RobinW, Jan and Ken.

Robin - I'll try a few chisels out at 30 degrees. If it makes no/not much difference, it should be quicker and easier to maintain it. Most of the timber we use is pine with the occasional hardwood thrown in. As I get more experienced, I'll start experimenting with some the secondary bevel.

Jan - Hopefully, if I can find some interested enough students, they can do some sharpening when they need it. It would give them a few more skills and save me some time.

Ken - Again, thanks. I'll read through the document and see what I can come up with. I'll experiment with your ideas and see if I can make them my own. If I discover anything, I'll share my ideas back on the forum.

[Waterstone]

Hello,

I'm rather new in this forum but a long time Tormek user (since 2008). Being more a handtool- and furniture maker than a turner, the main use my Tormek gets is the sharpening of chisels and plane blades. Since the very beginning I had some trouble with the SE 76 jig concerning the squareness of the edges (I know that's an old hat for you)   I found my way that suits me for about 8 years well. To make sure the squareness of the blade and to get the protrusion of the blade constant, I built a jig that will be shown in the following pic. It has 2 fences, one for longer western irons, one for shorter Japanese irons.





Later on an additional fence for narrow blades was added.





For setting up the universal support, I use some simple distance wooden pieces.





With this jig, I hadn't squareness issues any longer and, important as well, the set up for refreshing the blades is done in no time. The angle will be repeated perfectly every time for all blades.

Klaus

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Klaus (Waterstone).

Your fixtures and very designed, built and photographed. I especially like your set up for narrow chisels. They are the nost difficult to align; your set up looks like it does that very well.

I look forward to future posts from you.

Ken

[Jan]

Klaus (Waterstone), welcome to the forum and thanks for sharing images of your nice and useful jig.    It is inspiring!

What protrusions do you use?

When your grindstone wears down you will have to slightly increase the wooden blocks for setting the same angle via the grindstone – USB distance. 

Jan

[Hatchcanyon]

When your grindstone wears down you will have to slightly increase the wooden blocks for setting the same angle via the grindstone – USB distance. 

Jan

Jan I am actually building something similar, but maybe less fancy. My stones (SG/SB and SJ do not longer have identical diameters. And the distance necessary behaves as you decribe. I guess after one truing of the wheel the distance becomes so different that one would need another distance block. Using the WM 200 seems to me more appropriate and will not consume much more time.

Rolf

[Jan]

Rolf (Hatchcanyon) fortunately the decrease of grindstone diameter has quite small influence on the edge angle when the protrusion is the same. 

E.g. for 250 mm grindstone diameter, 139 mm kenjig/ knife jig protrusion and 30° edge angel the USB – grindstone distance should be 79 mm. For 240 mm grindstone diameter the USB – grindstone distance should increase to 80 mm only.

The example is valid for knife jig, for square edge jig the figures will be different, but I hope not dramatically.   

The resume is, that a hobby sharpener can live with one wooden distance block quite a long time. 

May be you have read my chisel topic "Setting 25 degree edge angle with TTS-100".
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2731.msg14578#msg14578



Jan

[Hatchcanyon]

Rolf (Hatchcanyon) fortunately the decrease of grindstone diameter has quite small influence on the edge angle when the protrusion is the same. 

Jan

Jan,

I measured recently a height difference of 1,2 Millimeter for two stonen of an estimated diameter difference of 3 Millimeter. Have to remeasure the difference in anle.

Rolf

[Jan]

Rolf, I can calculate it, but please let me know if it was for the square edge jig or the knife jig. I need also the diameter, the protrusion and the edge angle. 

Jan

[Waterstone]

What protrusions do you use?

When your grindstone wears down you will have to slightly increase the wooden blocks for setting the same angle via the grindstone – USB distance. 

Jan

Hello Jan,

the protrusions are 53 and 33 mm. Works well with long and short blades.

I take always the same distance pieces regardless of the decreasing diameter. Since I use only one stone, it doesn't matter if the angle gets slightly steeper by time. It's not all that much. The stone wears slowly. This year I replaced it the first time after 8 years of use.

Klaus

[Hatchcanyon]

Rolf, I can calculate it, but please let me know if it was for the square edge jig or the knife jig. I need also the diameter, the protrusion and the edge angle. 

Jan

Jan,

I tried to mesaure again:

SB und SG stone 246 mm
SJ stone 244 mm

Protrusion (SE-77) 35 mm

Using the Universal Support unchanged in height for example with first SG and then SJ will change the bevel angle about 1,4 - 1,5°. That means an effective polishing with the SJ is not possible without resetting the Universal Support. The height above stone circumference has to be adjusted by 0,2(5) mm to have the same angle.

These measurements may be a bit crude, but the light gap method with an WM-200 tells me the change in angle.

Rolf

[Jan]

Rolf, thanks for providing your data. 

My script was built for SE-76 jig geometry and I do not have the new SE-77 jig. Because I am not sure how much the geometry was changed I would like to ask you to measure for me two distances on the new jig SE-77.

The two lengths I need are shown in the picture below:
A is the distance between the front edge of the upper base and the USB axis shown in red (measured as vertical projection) and 
B is the distance between the flat upper base and the USB axis shown in red. 

Thanks in advance.
Jan

P.S.: For SE-76 jig the distances are following: A = 23.7 mm and B = 31 mm.

[Hatchcanyon]

I#ll try to find that out tomorrow.

Rolf

[Hatchcanyon]

he new jig SE-77.

The two lengths I need are shown in the picture below:
A is the distance between the front edge of the upper base and the USB axis shown in red (measured as vertical projection) and 
B is the distance between the flat upper base and the USB axis shown in red. 

Thanks in advance.
Jan

P.S.: For SE-76 jig the distances are following: A = 23.7 mm and B = 31 mm.

Hello Jan,

for the SE-77 A=17,5 mm, B=30 mm.

Rolf