Buying Spare Parts

[10Fingers]

I have a Supergrind 2000 and the body is pretty much done. Is it possible to buy just the body and put all the extra parts on it from the old one? Would the motor and everything else be able to make a straight across transfer to a new body?

Cheers
Kevin

[Ken S]

Welcome to the active forum, Kevin. Yes, Advaced Machinery (advmachinery.com) lists a new replacement housing for the ten inch size (Supergrind and T7) for $203.94 US. The parts should transfer. I'm not sure if your switch will fit. It might. If not, a new electronic switch is $42. You may have to add the horizontal sleeves. I think they run around twenty dollars.

If your shaft is rusty, you will want to upgrade it to the stainless steel EZYlock shaft.

Frankly, by the time you get done, you are not too far away from the cost of a new Tormek. If you don't do heavier work, like planer blades, you might find the T4 at $400 quite nice. I like it. If you think you need the larger, heavy duty model, there are T7s left at $600, which invlude the SE-76 square edge jig and the TT-50 truing tool. For $700 you can go with the latest top of the line T8.

If you prefer to fix up your Supergrind, I would seriously consider refurbishing and repainting the frame. You would have the satisfaction of restoring an old tool, and you would end up with a very functional Tormek at very little present out of pocket cost. I believe Herman repainted his Supergrind.

Either way, please keep us posted.

Ken

[SharpenADullWitt]

Ken's comments are in part based on the Tormek's design over time going from the 2000 square frame version (with no horizontal mount) to the frame that remained through the T-7.  Now based on warranty supplies, you should have about seven years to be able to buy a new frame. (new T-7's were sold into this year)  Before that, you might want to say what is going on with the old frame, what shape is it and have you read through the forum on old refinishing posts?
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=534.msg1250#msg1250
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2825.0
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1886.msg9734#msg9734

I was going to refinish mine but where I expected rust, was just sawdust, chips and glue from the bench it was on.  I think reading these might make you think about this as a more cost effective solution.

[Ken S]

Kevin,

It is certainly your choice what to do with your Tormek. I have already posted my logical side advice. My whimsical side would like to add a few words. That side of me would like to see you restore your SuperGrind. Your cost would be quite minimal if you do the work yourself. Even if you have a metal or auto body shop work on your frame, it should not be cost prohibitive. You would have the rare inner satisfaction of using a Tormek you restored.

I am not exactly sure what "pretty much done" means. Being in need of paint or having a fair amount of rust is really not a big deal. Auto body shops have healed much worse. Be sure to watch Stumpy Nubs' in depth interview with Stig on youtube. Stig mentions how much improved today's paint is compared to the paint used on the SuperGrinds. If you carefully restore your Tormek, it is a lifetime investment.

We are all cheering for you. Please keep us posted.

Ken

[10Fingers]

Thanks for your responses.

I bought my machine a few years ago from an old woodworker who was going into an old age home. His son was selling his stuff and I originally went to buy a bench vice and chisels. This Supergrind was sitting in a corner all rusty and seized up and hadn't been used in years the guy said. I instantly knew what I found and asked how much he wanted for it and looked at me like I had 2 heads cause he was going to throw it out. He looked around and found two stones, 4 tubes of honing paste and 5 jigs for it. I bought everything for $200 and I brought it home and started to restore it that day.

The shaft was so rusty that I thought I was going to break the stone trying to get it out but managed to get it eventually. Next on the list was the body, I sandblasted it and found some Rustolium that almost matched the original green color. I have to say, it looked pretty good and my excitement was growing.

I bought a stainless shaft, truing tool and a gouge jig and have had years of enjoyment sharpening anything I can get my hands on. There's nothing like someone asking if I now how to sharpen a kitchen knife and then giving it back to them sharper than anything they've ever had.

Anyway..... my dilemma is that recently I had cut up some bowl blanks for roughing. I put a large 20lb piece on my lathe and made two major mistakes.

1. I didn't bring the tail stock up and secure the wood with the live centre.
2. I didn't check the speed when I turned it on.

The result was that the blank was off balance and it was on high speed. In my panic, I fumbled to turn it off but couldn't before it flew off and made a bee line to my Tormec that was sitting on my bench. The force at which it hit sent my prized possession flying into the wall and it then hit the floor. The result was that the frame is bent so bad that I can't even get the support arm out of it. I don't understand how the stone didn't break but I'm happy regardless. That's what I mean by "pretty much done" lol

My choice now is to try and fix it or I know a guy who is selling his new T4 (he's moving into a condo and can't use it anymore he said). He is asking $325 Canadian which is a good price but I'm just a little unsure if I'll be unhappy with the T4 after having the heavy duty model for so long. I just have a hobby shop and don't use it for any sort of constant Pro use..... just a few times a week I'd say.

A few of my fellow turners I know all have said to get the T7 and not bother with the T3 in the past so it has me worried.

What should I do?..... repair or probably for the same price it sounds, get the T4?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

Regards
Kevin

[Ken S]

Kevin,

Ouch! Your Tormek really took a hit. Do not lump the T4 with the T3. When Tormek designed the T4, the engineers corrected the major weakness in the T3. The all plastic housing of the T3 retained the motor heat, which could cause the plastic to melt and cause the shaft ti go out of alignment.

The redesigned machined zinc top of the T4 acts like a heat sink and ended the overheating problem. I ran my T4 constantly for two days when I demonstrated the Tormek at a woodworking show with no heat problem. I do not speak for Tormek, but my personal experience has lead me to disregard the thirty minute rest period. In fact, using a Norton 3x 46grit wheel adapted to the T4, I reshaped a HHS gouge in about five minutes.

I leave it to you to decide if the T4 suits your needs. Just compare it on its own merits and not with the T3.

My one complaint is the marketing of the T4. It should not be purchased without the TT-50 trying tool. Truing is not an option. However, you already have the truing tool.

The real joy of the T4 is its portability. I bought a single ball bowling bag to carry mine (with the wheel removed and boxed beneath the T4. It is quite comfortable to carry. The bag can hold everything you need.

Back to your SuperGrind: If you are very patient, you may be able to find a SuperGrind with motor problems. Assuming your motor is still working, you should be able to combine two units.

Vehicle frames can be straightened. It might be worth a visit to a body shop to inquire about the feasibility of having your frame straightened. I suspect this would not be practical.

In the US, most Tormek repairs are done by the importer, Affinity Tool in Michigan. Rick Ursell is the Tormek guru at Affinity. Rick is a good guy, but is also travels a lot. I would suggest calling him and seeing if by chance the repair department might have any good used housings from a unit with a bad motor.

In Canada, I would contact Big Bear Tools. I purchased an out of production jig through Big Bear several years ago. They were nice to deal with. I dealt with Dave Street. Ionut referred me to him.Big Bear could tell you who does the repairs in Canada and maybe help find a housing.

The third group to contact would be Tormek support. (support.tormek.se). Stig and his team are quite knowledgeable and helpful.

Must run. I have to help get my grandchildren ready for school. I am leading up to suggesting you consider getting the used T4 and pursue finding a used housing.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[SharpenADullWitt]

Can't get the support arm out, means those holders could be tweaked and pinching it.
While I believe the T-4 is a good machine, it sounds as if you have multiple stones for the T2000, which won't work on the T-4. (that would lean me to try to fix the 2000)
Is your machine square framed, or with the slant frame?
Can you pull the stone, leather wheel and drive wheel off, and remove that shaft?  Is it straight or bent?  I would disassemble the machine, before ordering parts. (one step at a time, examine everything) Do you have any machinist friends?  (wondering if they could put it in a press, to put pressure on it the other way, and without all the stuff in it, there should be less resistance)

[10Fingers]

Thanks for that Ken. I think I just may take a closer look at the new T4 then. I'll probably just patiently wait to see if a frame comes up.... or like SharpenADullWitt mentioned, talk to a machine/autobody business to see if I can straighten it. Then at least I could sell it at that point.

I also noticed tonight while looking at it that the housing for the switch is also smashed so I'm unsure if i could even get one of those anymore.

It's given a lot of years of service so it just might be time to retire the old gal.

I'll let you know if I get the T4.....

Cheers
Kevin

[Ken S]

Kevin, we're all cheering for you.

Ken

[Ken S]

Re: replacement switches

Advanced Machinery (advmachinery.com) has both model switches. You should check to see which switch is compatable with whatever housing you end up with. If either would work, my personal preference would be the older model. You can use a foot switch with it, which helps when flattening backs with the side of the wheel. I think the newer switch has a safety feature. I would find this safety feature essential with something like a table saw.

Ken

[10Fingers]

Thanks Ken

I appreciate all the info!

Kevin

[10Fingers]

My apologies.... thanks SharpenADullWitt for your input too

Cheers
Kevin

[SharpenADullWitt]

Re: replacement switches

Advanced Machinery (advmachinery.com) has both model switches. You should check to see which switch is compatable with whatever housing you end up with. If either would work, my personal preference would be the older model. You can use a foot switch with it, which helps when flattening backs with the side of the wheel. I think the newer switch has a safety feature. I would find this safety feature essential with something like a table saw.

Ken

To me the best part of their site, is the parts sections, with diagrams.  Not sure if Canada's site has the same breakdown view, but that is one part of why I think disassembly first before ordering.
I think when they changed, all the switches went to the newer style, because from what I can see, the mount is the same.

[Ken S]

I am not sure about the mount. In the case of the switches, the newer design may be "safer", however, I find the older design more useful. It is also half the price.

Ken