Axe grinding, stone grade

[SharpenADullWitt]

Who here has done axe grinding?  (the one time I tried, the location of my Tormek, precluded it, due to the long handle)
Do you use the stone in the 220 grit, or graded finer? (assume no chips, reshaping)

[Jan]

Once I was sharpening a splitting axe using Axe jig. I used 220 SG stone and set 35° edge angle. Everything worked fine, but I have to confess that the steel was not too hard, it was significantly milder than the one used by Fiskars. 

Jan

[SharpenADullWitt]

I checked the new site as I didn't realize there were so many different style of axes, or they had different angles.  So I guess the best thing is to check them as I don't know what ones he is having me work on.
I have done some reading of old posts on this forum, and it appears that freehand seems to be the more preferred method for axes.  (guessing they have similar issues to me with length)
220 it is.

Thanks

[Jan]

For heavier axes the Tormek Axe jig is often too small, but dispite the fact it can be used as a partial support/guidance.

What concerns free-hand grinding, I would recommend the universal support bar as the tool rest. Your index finger or some suitable collar around the axe head may be used as a stop.   

Jan

[SharpenADullWitt]

I wish the axes/hatchets were as straight sided as yours.  They look more like a barn and with how wore one hatchet it, I am having trouble getting its angle.  (seems to be somewhere between 50 and 55 degree's, which seems steep to me)

These things all have the shape of barn roofs, and I can sharpen them quicker with a puck then the Tormek.
The bbq cheap butchers knife (part of a bbq set) that he sent, I freehanded that in under two minutes (taking my time, due to really long handle), but the axes are kicking my rear, po'ing me and making me want a lot more on that subject from Tormek (I am not even sure how to "identify the style" of the axes, since they list so many different types on their site).

[Herman Trivilino]

I've had the best luck sharpening axes, hatchets, and splitting mauls with a platform jig. Before that I would attach a c-clamp to the head and let it slide along the universal support rod. I've never had much luck free handing anything, which is what prompted me to buy a Tormek in the first palce.

I always prepare the grindstone in the coarse state, but of course you can follow that up with the fine state if you're so inclined. I don't recall ever having done that myself, as I can't imagine the need.

[SharpenADullWitt]

A few things I learned:

One, axes and some hatchets, will require the buffing wheel to be removed for clearance. (their video mentions that)
Two, Splitting mauls, I expect I will have to do free hand (just weigh too much, have yet to try the platform jig, but I expect slippage).
Three, from a competitors video, they mentioned the lighter weight axes, for cutting, at around 25 degree's, and the heavier splitting style axes, around 40 degree's. (handy info, when you don't have a trusted edge to go by)
Four, the Eastwig old leather hatchet, and the Stihl axe, both sharpened well at 25 degree's (head size of axes, require adjustments every time).  The cheapie "hatchet" that was barn shaped, came either from Menards (free with rebate) or Harbor Freight, and feels like (censored) metal, and is so thick, that I sharpened it at 40 degrees.  I expect to have to thin the whole head, if he wants it at 25 degree's.  Just too much ahem, pot "metal".
Five, there is NO WAY, I found, where I would feel safe, sharpening the dual headed axe, either with a regular handle, or with the warped handle he wants to keep on it.

And lastly, walking away when frustrated, and coming back later, made life so much easier.

[Ken S]

Unfortunately for the axe, the chain saw was invented. At one time, when axes were the primary tools of lumberjacks and anyone felling trees for firewood, users would demand better quality.  No serious lumberjack would buy or use a free with rebate axe from a big box store.

Quality axes are still available, but are often made in small quantities by skilled individual blacksmiths, and are priced accordinly.

I like Estwing tools. My favorite hammer was purchased by my father about the time I arrived. Since then I have purchased several leather handle Estwing hammers, mostly for gifts. I don't own an Estwing hatchet, however, I have faith that it must be a well made tool.

We could use some more in depth training from Sweden on axes and sharpening them.

Ken

ps The cheapie hatchet might work better as a paper weight.

[Jan]

My 10 years old Fiskars splitting axe has flat cutting bevel with an edge angle of 30° only. The axe fits well into the Tormek Axe jig. 

The newest Fiskars splitting axes (the X series) should have convex cutting bevel with an edge angle of 35°. http://kz.fiskars.com/bypass/axe/cis/files/fiskars_wood_preparation_fact_sheet.pdf

Jan

[Herman Trivilino]

Splitting mauls, I expect I will have to do free hand (just weigh too much, have yet to try the platform jig, but I expect slippage).

I've sharpened mine with my platform jig, and I did the same with one I found that was very badly damaged. I had to do some free handing on the dry grinder with that one before it saw the Tormek.

[Herman Trivilino]

I like Estwing tools. My favorite hammer was purchased by my father about the time I arrived. Since then I have purchased several leather handle Estwing hammers, mostly for gifts. I don't own an Estwing hatchet, however, I have faith that it must be a well made tool.

When I was a carpenter the 22 ounce Estwing framing hammer was the most popular. I went through several but have since lost them all. One could get either the smooth face (for cornice) or the waffle head (also called milled face, for framing). For those unfamiliar with the terminology, framing is of course what they refer to as "first fix" on the other side of the pond. Cornice is all the wood on the outside of a house that gets painted. This includes siding, door and window trim, soffit, fascia, corner boards, brick friezes, and so forth.

I still have a 28 ounce Estwing from that era. It was considered more manly than the 22 ounce. Its waffle head has long since been reduced to almost a smooth face. My friend had a 32 ounce Estwing riggers ax that he used as his framing hammer. Of course, the heavier the hammer, the greater the bragging rights. Setting a 12 penny framing nail and then driving it home with a single hit was the mark of an accomplished framer.

[Jan]

Interesting story, Herman, thanks for sharing. 

Recently my brother donated me an used framing hammer with magnetised slot which allowes to place the nail with just one hand.  When balancing on a steep roof than it is really a great advantage.

One tip of the splitted claw part of the hammer is shorter and has a chisel grind. I think it is for prying nailed boards apart and not for removing nails.

Jan

P.S.: Estwing offers a framing hammer with magnetic nail starter also.