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Minimum stone size

Started by RichColvin, June 05, 2016, 04:07:38 AM

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RichColvin

I have the Supergrind 2000, & today I had to retire the original SG-250 stone :'(.  I can tell you that 185 mm is the smallest diameter stone that will fit on that machine.  There is a small rivulet of water picked up by the stone from the trough, but not really enough to really work with.

So, I played Taps and retired it. 

But, that is ok.  The new guard has stepped in.  I replaced it with an SB-250.  This was a better stone for me anyway as I am a woodturner and most of my tools that I sharpen are HSS.  It works like a charm.  When I'm turning, I can easily drop back and touch up a gouge quickly, and get back to productive work.  This stone has permanently replaced the SG for me.


Now, Ken S. just lent me his SJ-250, so I'll have to explore that bad boy tomorrow...
---------------------------
Rich Colvin
www.SharpeningHandbook.info - a reference guide for sharpening

You are born weak & frail, and you die weak & frail.  What you do between those is up to you.

Ken S

I saw that veteran Tormek grinding wheel. It definitely deserves full military honors for its service.

By the way, the edge on the SJ wheel is directly from the TT-50.

Thanks for the good posts.

Ken

Hatchcanyon

Quote from: RichColvin on June 05, 2016, 04:07:38 AM

But, that is ok.  The new guard has stepped in.  I replaced it with an SB-250.  This was a better stone for me anyway as I am a woodturner and most of my tools that I sharpen are HSS.  It works like a charm.  When I'm turning, I can easily drop back and touch up a gouge quickly, and get back to productive work.  This stone has permanently replaced the SG for me.


Now, Ken S. just lent me his SJ-250, so I'll have to explore that bad boy tomorrow...

Rich,

the SB-250 is really worth the money if one has HSS tools. It saves a lot of time.

The SJ-250 is wonderful for plane irons and chisels but for turning tools I feel it is not mandatory. Changing the stone always needs some time. The leather wheels might be faster and the inner side of gouges ca be honed too. Ok, Tormek claims that honing on leather is not necessary after using the SJ stone. For straight irons I can confirm this.

Rolf
German with a second home in the American Southwestern Desert - loves Old England too.

Ken S

My initial experiences with the SB-250 were not so positive. I have thought my difficulties might be operator inexperience rather than a problem with the stone itself. Steve Bottorff's comments have given me faith in the SB. I am pleased to add Rich and Rolf's positive experiences.

Ken

Hatchcanyon

Quote from: Ken S on June 05, 2016, 05:11:11 PM
My initial experiences with the SB-250 were not so positive. I have thought my difficulties might be operator inexperience rather than a problem with the stone itself. Steve Bottorff's comments have given me faith in the SB. I am pleased to add Rich and Rolf's positive experiences.

Ken

First I experienced some difficulties with the SB. In retrospect it seems that one special older HSS plane iron from Steiner was the culprit. It glazed the stone but after a while the stone grinded as before. Since then I have not worked that specific iron again. With all other HSS steels for example from Kirschen and Crown nothing went wrong.

Rolf
German with a second home in the American Southwestern Desert - loves Old England too.

Herman Trivilino

A glazed-over grindstone is an annoying problem, especially for beginners who lack the experience to recognize the problem when it occurs. It's essential to repeatedly apply the coarse side of the stone grader to keep it from happening.
Origin: Big Bang