Drill sharpening: What am I doing wrong?

[Ken S]

Thanks, Elden, for posting the Tubalcain link. I have watched several of his videos; he does a fine job.

I watched a presenter show sharpening a drill bit with another brand of belt grinder. The operation was simple and produced a very usable standard grind.

Where the DBS-22 shines is versatility and the four facet grind. I have had good results with it. The good results were not immediate, but, with some practice, I have been able to produce nice sharp bits. Tubalcain sums this up well when he says one needs practice. I suggest you spend some time working with several bits in the 1/2" (12mm) range. Larger bits are easier to sharpen. Allow yourself a couple relaxed hours for this. I have no better than average mechanical ability. If I can use the DBS-22, I am certain you can also.

Slow and steady carries the day. Hang in there, and keep posting.

Ken

ps Time spent watching Alan Hotham's DBS-22 video several times is well invested. yOu can access in on tormek.com.

[Janne]

One easy way of checking clearence on a drill bit is to paint the second facett with an ink pen. The ink will show if the clearence is enough or causing heat.

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Grinder of Sweden.

Your suggestion is excellent. It reminds me of a dentist using carbon paper after installing a filling. When you bite down, if the filling is too high, the carbon will rub off on the tooth. With a drill bit, if the ink is removed from the secondary facet, which should not be rubbing, the clearance is inadequate. Very clever.

Keep up the good work.

Ken

[RichColvin]

Paul,

I've read thru all the commentary and am adding a few thoughts.

As it regards the DBS-22, it is a truly wonderful jig.  I've used it to sharpen my bits, and find that process to be one that is repeatable and the time required is certainly acceptable.  I often work with small pieces of exotic woods like burls.  When drilling into these, tear out is very bad.  Working with a sharp bit is crucial and the DBS-22 never fails to perform.

And, I must say that the 4-point facet you showed in your photographs looks quite good.  Great work !!


I suspect that the issue you are facing is not with the sharpening technique, but one of the following :

• pre-drilling the hole with a smaller bit first, and lubricating the bit whilst using it, or
• using the wrong drill bit steel type.

I use carbide steel bits when drilling steel.  High Speed Steel (HSS) is good, especially for wood turning, but carbide is what is meant for cutting steel.  In fact, metal lathes use carbide bits rather than HSS.

But, if you don't have a set of carbide bits, then pre-drill, and lubricate the bit as others have mentioned.  And, you'll probably have to re-sharpen them when done.

Kind regards,
Rich

[Ken S]

Excellent post, Rich.

Have you tried touching up carbide bits with the SB?

Ken

[RichColvin]

Ken,

Thank you.  I haven't tried sharpening carbide bits just yet, but recently re-watched Alan Holtham's video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSUa1iFUzkM), and am going to venture down that path soon.  I'll let you know how it goes.

Kind regards,
Rich