Long knives & cleavers jig

[Jan]

CB, really nice extension jig, congrats! 

Jan

[cbwx34]

CB, really nice extension jig, congrats! 

Jan

Thanks to you for the idea and plans (and also Rick's input)... works great! 

[RickKrung]

Rick, your interest pleases me! 
It is an inexpensive and very versatile adaptor.

Jan

I have previously measured the spacing between the USB holes, and came up with 90mm also... so can at least confirm that.

Thanks to both of you for the info... I'll be building one... as soon as the parts come in.   

My implementation of Jan's extension jig is shown below.  I already had the XB-100 Horizontal Base and the 1"x2"x1/8" thick steel tubing, so I was able to get this far.  While I measured and posted the Base hole mount dimensions, I opted to clamp the base to the tube and spot drill the hole locations.  I tried clamping it square but something didn't work out and the jig was not square once mounted, so I opened up the jig holes and now it does. 

I also precision clamped the Base to the backside and spot drilled the first 12mm hole and then center drilled it.  Then took out the layout blue and tools and carefully layed out and center punched the location of the second 12mm hole.  Existing USBs slide in just fine. 

I used to live in Portland, OR, USA (a medium sized city) and could just run out and get things like M12-1.5 threaded rod and nuts.  But, a little over a year ago, I move to a tiny town in far NE Oregon with a population of 300, but it is in ranching country so it has two hardware stores.  Still, I had to order the threaded rod and nuts.  Will have to wait for them to finish the project. 

Rick

The threaded rod and nuts arrived today, so I completed my entry. I was easily able to obtain M12 x 1.5 threaded rod in plain steel, but it cost a fortune (>$300 US) for it in stainless steel.  So, I opted for M123 x 1.75 which was way less expensive ($34).  Seems to me like it won't matter that much.

I made the bars 8" long.  Not sure that I'll ever need them that long, but I had a meter of threaded rod.

Rick

[Jan]

Good job, Rick! Very nice extension jig. 

I was terrified by the overpriced M12 threaded rod. Here 1 m of stainless M12 threaded rod costs less than $5 and the zinced one between $1 and $2. It is so inexpensive that I sometimes use it as reinforcing iron into concrete.

Jan

[Ken S]

Nice work, Rick!

This is another example of how the scope and versatility of the Tormek extends beyond what is commercially profitable to manufacture and sell to a large market. While I can certainly understand Tormek's business situation, it is refreshing to see such ingenuity among the forum.

Ken

[RichColvin]

So, this has to change the angle with which you hold the tool when sharpening from the "horizontal" position.  Not the sharpening angle, but the way you hold it must be more vertically oriented than without this piece holding the USB. 

Do you find that this makes sharpening easier or harder?  Do you have to adjust the height of the grinder to accommodate?

Rich

[cbwx34]

The threaded rod and nuts arrived today, so I completed my entry. I was easily able to obtain M12 x 1.5 threaded rod in plain steel, but it cost a fortune (>$300 US) for it in stainless steel.  So, I opted for M123 x 1.75 which was way less expensive ($34).  Seems to me like it won't matter that much.

I made the bars 8" long.  Not sure that I'll ever need them that long, but I had a meter of threaded rod.

Rick

Looks good (no surprise there).   I also used M12x1.75 (didn't even have a 1.5 option, but yeah that price is crazy) and mine are about the same length.

So, this has to change the angle with which you hold the tool when sharpening from the "horizontal" position.  Not the sharpening angle, but the way you hold it must be more vertically oriented than without this piece holding the USB. 

Do you find that this makes sharpening easier or harder?  Do you have to adjust the height of the grinder to accommodate?

Rich

I find it to be a more "natural" position (sharpening knives anyway)... it brings the height up, and the movement is closer to sharpening freehand.  Much easier.  It brings the height up to where it should be, so no need to adjust the height of the Tormek.  It also brings it up to a position where I can see the edge contacting the stone better.

Sharpening directly off the horizontal USB was too low and an unnatural movement for me (again for knives).

[RickKrung]

So, this has to change the angle with which you hold the tool when sharpening from the "horizontal" position.  Not the sharpening angle, but the way you hold it must be more vertically oriented than without this piece holding the USB. 

Do you find that this makes sharpening easier or harder?  Do you have to adjust the height of the grinder to accommodate?

Rich

I haven't used it yet, and was expecting to use it more for honing than sharpening.  I'll go with CB's response.  I am thinking it will be a "figure it out as you go" thing and probably be based a lot on use of the AM and examining black marker scrapings to establish angles.

I do have further ulterior motives, however.  For drill bit sharpening, I really like the four facet grinds, but want to put on more relief than it seems the Tormek is very good at.  Thus, I want to set up the USB on my high speed dry grinder so as to create the relief and then bring it to the Tormek for the final four facet grinding. 

I'll likely need another BGM-100 and it occurs to me that with that, and this jig extension, it will serve the same function as the OWC-1 Converter that is meant to work with the Wolverine V arm (that I don't have).

Rick

[RichColvin]

Rick,

I'm interested in your efforts & experiences with the tertiary facet grinding of a drill bit.  As a hobby machinist, I believe this will be greatly helpful for drilling steels on the metal lathe (& pillar press ?).

Maybe post your results to Drill Bit Sharpening folder ?

Rich

[RickKrung]

Rick,

I'm interested in your efforts & experiences with the tertiary facet grinding of a drill bit.  As a hobby machinist, I believe this will be greatly helpful for drilling steels on the metal lathe (& pillar press ?).

Maybe post your results to Drill Bit Sharpening folder ?

Rich

Rich,

I am also a hobby machinist.  And yes, when I do more with the drill bit grinding, I'll post on the Drill Bit Sharpening forum. 

I have only sharpened two drills with the four facets, a 1/2" and 5/8".  Most of my other drills do not need sharpening (yet).  This is partly because, as I've posted at least a couple times, in all metals and often in wood, when free-hand drilling, I start by center-punching the hole location, followed by center-drilling.  Then if the hole is small, I'll drill it full size.  If the hole is larger, and especially if the material being drilled is thin, I start small and work up in increments, 1/16" or 1/8".  Thus, the drills always have a center already established. 

Even when drilling on my milling machine, where the work piece is securely held and location is precisely determined by a DRO, the drill bit can wander, so there also I always center-drill first.  I guess, I could hope that the four facet grind could change that. 

Probably should have said this first, but, as I understand it, the four facet grind is primarily for reducing the tendency of the drill to wander when first starting the hole, due to the wide web at the center of the conventional two facet grind.  This would occur if starting the hole without center punching and/or center-drilling.  As I see it, if a center (hole) has already been established, the four facet grind has little bearing as only the two leading facets are doing the cutting. 

I will definitely be putting four facet grinds on any drills I sharpen (with the Tormek) in the future, especially the larger ones, as any help in keeping things on point is helpful.

Rick

[RichColvin]

Rick,

I too center drill, and progressively increase bit sizes.  I have found that, in these cases, the secondary facet isn't about wandering, but about chip evacuation.  The secondary relief is to help with this, and consequently with pressure needed to drill.  That is what I found in the information from Joseph Mazoff (http://www.newmantools.com/machines/drillpoint.html).

Rich

[RickKrung]

Rick,

I too center drill, and progressively increase bit sizes.  I have found that, in these cases, the secondary facet isn't about wandering, but about chip evacuation.  The secondary relief is to help with this, and consequently with pressure needed to drill.  That is what I found in the information from Joseph Mazoff (http://www.newmantools.com/machines/drillpoint.html).

Rich

Yes, I was forgetting that part of his discussion.  Thanks for the reminder. 

Rick