Knife tip grinding - To Pivot or Not To Pivot

[RickKrung]

Thank you very much. This is a great forum. I think I will try to make one myself by grinding down the standard collar. But I will try only to grind the sides if it is possible:)

troflog,

If you do grind down the standard collar, I would recommend NOT putting a curve/bevel on the front.  I did and found it was too easy to have the collar ride up on the USB and slip forward.  CB came up with the "shaft collar" innovation, but even that slips up.  That was the reason I developed the the "pin pivot" addition.  To me it makes all the difference. 

If by trying to "only grind the sides", not beveling it is what you mean, I believe you are on the right track. 

Rick

[Plekter]

First, the drawbacks of a cut down collar: you need to focus a little more on a) keeping the knife flat to the stone when working on the straight edge of the blade and b) keeping the jig on the USB without slipping off
Second, the perk: the pivot point becomes practically stationary, as opposed to moving drastically, as shown in the second row of the pic cbwx posted above

Hi everybody. I am new in this forum, and this is my very first post. I hope you understand me even as I am not a native english speaker since I am a Danish viking.

But I have read all this about making the collar rig smaller to get a better tilting movement with great enjoyment, and can see a lot of improvements in the ideas from Kavik and cbwx34.

But maybe it can be done even better.

I have an - maybe great - idea to make it even more precisely.

Instead of using the collar at all - what if you drill a hole through the svm-45 upside/down through the handle of the jig itself just behind the zero-center-mark on it. And then you put a piece of a round steelrod or alike through the hole and glue it there so it is protruding equally up and down from the drilled hole. Then you can hold the upper part of the steelrod between your thumb and indexfinger when grinding so it stays on the USB because the lower part of the rod is against the USB itself, and since it is longer than an almost grinded away collar then it wont slip easy. And when you tilt it, it will tilt around the exact center of the jig not moving downward at all, but giving the 100% optimal curve.

Of course you will lose the possibility to adjust the length by using the collar - but on the other hand you also get rid of the feeling of the collar turning on the jig which I find annoying - but it can be height adjusted with the USB up or down instead. And not so hard steering on the straight parts of the blade as else....but what does this intelligent forum think regarding this idea?

[RichColvin]

Jørgen,

Rick Krug's adapter for the SVM knife jigs does basically that.  Nice add-on!

Kind regards,
Rich

[hunter]

 @Plekter,have you a Photo or a Drawing for your Idee?

[Plekter]

@RichColvin
I had not seen the Rick Krug´s adapter until now. It is basically the same idea as mine, but needs a lot more work to prepare the adapter I think. It must also feel a little more clumsy in the hands since you have all the rings which bear it on the shaft. My idea would be more slick since its only a thinner rod going directly through the rig without all the holding-on-it-stuff. And then you could wrap something around the end of the rig to avoid be irritated by the grooves in the end of the handle.

@Hunter
I have not made it in the real yet - so no photos or drawings.
But since the thickness of the handle itself is around 12 mm or 15/32", then I think the metalrod going through should be no more than 4 mm or 5/32" to not weaken the shaft itself too much and a total length of 5 cm/ 2" should be suitable. So if you can imagine a 2" metalrod going through the shaft of the rig up/down and nothing else so you else have the "clean" shaft to hold to - then you have it. It should be an easy fix - just a drill and some metalworking glue or epoxy to hold it in place. Did you understand my explanation now?

[cbwx34]

...
Instead of using the collar at all - what if you drill a hole through the svm-45 upside/down through the handle of the jig itself just behind the zero-center-mark on it. And then you put a piece of a round steelrod or alike through the hole and glue it there so it is protruding equally up and down from the drilled hole. Then you can hold the upper part of the steelrod between your thumb and indexfinger when grinding so it stays on the USB because the lower part of the rod is against the USB itself, and since it is longer than an almost grinded away collar then it wont slip easy. And when you tilt it, it will tilt around the exact center of the jig not moving downward at all, but giving the 100% optimal curve.

Of course you will lose the possibility to adjust the length by using the collar - but on the other hand you also get rid of the feeling of the collar turning on the jig which I find annoying - but it can be height adjusted with the USB up or down instead. And not so hard steering on the straight parts of the blade as else....but what does this intelligent forum think regarding this idea?

@RichColvin
I had not seen the Rick Krug´s adapter until now. It is basically the same idea as mine, but needs a lot more work to prepare the adapter I think. It must also feel a little more clumsy in the hands since you have all the rings which bear it on the shaft. My idea would be more slick since its only a thinner rod going directly through the rig without all the holding-on-it-stuff. And then you could wrap something around the end of the rig to avoid be irritated by the grooves in the end of the handle.

@Hunter
I have not made it in the real yet - so no photos or drawings.
But since the thickness of the handle itself is around 12 mm or 15/32", then I think the metalrod going through should be no more than 4 mm or 5/32" to not weaken the shaft itself too much and a total length of 5 cm/ 2" should be suitable. So if you can imagine a 2" metalrod going through the shaft of the rig up/down and nothing else so you else have the "clean" shaft to hold to - then you have it. It should be an easy fix - just a drill and some metalworking glue or epoxy to hold it in place. Did you understand my explanation now?

Don't see why it wouldn't work, although I'm not sure gluing it in would be the best solution.  Rick's has the advantage of being removable as well as adjustable (and there is nothing "clumsy" about it).

But, bearing in mind you'll probably have to dedicate/sacrifice a jig, I say give it a try... should work similar to what the other methods do... and might be a simpler, more accessible route to take.