Tool rest for the side of the grinding wheel Ken S

[Elden]

   Recently on the hand tool sub section of the forum, I asked about sharpening dry wall knives on the Tormek. I had used a 4" belt sander which worked well. Herman and Ken both offered good suggestions.

   Ken sent some clarifying pictures in regard to his suggestion.  He asked that I would post them on the forum. He claims that he is a dinosaur! I think I am a 3/4 or 7/8 grown dinosaur!    Well Ken here is my attempt. Hopefully the pictures will be a workable size.



Hi, Eldon. These actually start at the bottom (I reversed them, EH), showing the position of the universal support bar, and the XP=100 alone, followed by the XP-100 with the piece of lumber. Then the scissors platform and the Turlock platform.

Care should be taken in having the two shorter legs of the universal support bar square to the grinding wheel. I recommend a better choice of clamp; this one was just handy for the photos. With the scissors platform and the Turlock platform, the clamping position can be used to provide more distance on the side of the grinding wheel. The thickness of the wood effects that, also.

Would you please post these on the forum for me. For some reason, this Neanderthal can not post photos to the forum. (I am working on it.)

I hope these clarify my idea for your drywall knives.

Ken


Positioning of the universal support bar (see first picture)


XP-100 mounted on USB (see second picture)


Board temporarily clamped to XP-100 (see third picture)


Scissors jig platform mounted on USB (see fourth picture)


Board temporarily clamped to scissors platform (see fifth picture)


SVD-110 Tool Rest mounted on USB (see sixth picture)


Board temporarily clamped to SVD-110 Tool Rest (see seventh picture)

[Ken S]

Many thanks, Eldon. Someday this Neanderthal will enter the twenty-first century>

Ken

[Elden]

Glad to help, Ken. Thank you for the great idea and pictures. It did make me do a little scratching to get the dust off of Photobucket!

[Rob]

I think that side mounting method is most ingenious...great lateral thinking there :-)

[Ken S]

Eldon, thankfully you were able to get the photos on the forum with only a little scratching; I was unsuccessful with a lot of scratching.

Rob, thanks. If I could only do vertical thinking, too........

Rob, did you notice the elegant plain background in the photos? (it's a product called "builder paper" used to protect wooden floors during house construction. Only the most exclusive photo studios use it. )

Ken

[Rob]

Very lateral again you see Ken.......builder paper...not expensive photographic "no reflect" light absorbing expensive stuff.  Like your thrift there young man :-)

When taking product shots for woodturning competitions I've got a little light box which is very useful.  It's just a white cloth stretched over a bendable frame with Velcro for different coloured backdrops.  Very simple and as long as the "thing" isn't too big it works really well.  The walls double as a light diffuser if you have an external lamp outside to remove shadows whilst internally they're all the same colour.

I stick the camera on the tripod and always shoot at 100 ISO or less to avoid granularity and enabling a long depth of field so I can get the whole thing in shot.  Shooting at f16 and above of course necessitates a long exposure time so I supplement the tripod with a little remote I have for my camera which plugs into a port in the side.  It's not wireless but it means I can operate the shutter from a yard away with only a cable running between me and the camera so it eliminates all camera shake.

I haven't yet figured out how to jack the camera directly into Canon's desktop program because if I did that I could capture the images RAW and edit the white balance etc right there and then.  Not really necessary with woodturning shots anyway but taking a bit of trouble with that cheapo light box makes an enormous difference to the quality of the final image.

[Ken S]

Good post, Rob.

If you notice the plain gray background in my knife tool photos, it is actually an 18% neutral photo gray card. I don't know how much difference it actually makes, but it seems like it should keep the ship on an even keel.

Can you place a gray card in your white box to set your white balance? (I have seen combination white, gray, and black cards which might be more useful. I don't know, as I have never tried them. I'm an old twentieth century Kodak gray card guy.)

Can you run a USB cord between your camera and your computer or a a wireless "station" (not sure of the right term, but it converts the signal to wireless. Sorry, my vocabulary is stuck in the last millenium.)

I noticed a big difference in color when I switched to tungsten in my white balance selector. (I was shooting JPEG, but for quality work, my preference would be RAW.)

The Head of School where my grandchildren attend has a very impressive appendage on the top of her daughter's Canon camera. It is a wireless adaptor which her daughter overtightened. It is now permanent. It fits in the flash hot shoe. The Nikon adaptor fits in a receptacle in the side of the camera and sticks out. I think Canon gets the better design prize.

Ken

[SharpenADullWitt]

I have an old unthreaded bar and this makes me wonder if this could be another method for Herrm's or Ionut's jigs (mounting part to get closer to the wheel).

[Ken S]

John,

If you rig up something like shown in these photos and use the diamond dresser bar recommended by grepper, you should be able to dress the side of your wheel.

Ken

ps sorry I don't know how to merge these threads.

[SharpOp]

Very creative/useful/helpful/instructive, Ken.  Thanks!

[Ken S]

Thanks for the kind words, Doug. I believe there is untapped potential in the universal support!

Ken