Cleaning side of stone

[bulerias1981]

Hell all, I've had the Tormek T7 since 2008. The side of my stone (used to flattening the backs of chisels and plane irons) is pretty black and clogged with shmutz. So the cutting action is much less. Any advice on cleaning the side of the stone really good? I've tried using the truing stone, but that doesn't seem sufficient. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

-John Vergara
www.johnvergaramusic.com

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, John.

I tried a couple ideas on the side of my grinding wheel, which may or may not be of any help. My first T7 was from 2009. It was stolen three years ago in a home burglary, so my present T7 is newer. The side of my wheel is stained, but not black.

I tried using a stiff brush. It seemed to lighten the stains somewhat, but I don't have a lot of hope. Next I tried using some aluminum oxide sandpaper, first with a sanding sponge and second with just a piece of sandpaper. No real improvement.

The third idea, which I have not tried, is using some grinding granules. Lee Valley sells these (they may be a standard automotive store product) in 90 grit. Some of the granules are sprinkled on a piece of plate glass along with some water. The side of the grinding wheel is then rubbed against the glass. This is a recommended way to flatten (bench) water stones. I do not know if it would help the side of a Tormek wheel or not.

Your best chance may be to email Tormek support in Sweden. (support.tormek.se). The Tormek factory is presently closed for vacation until August 4. The factory staff should have an answer for you. If so, would you please post it on the forum.

Ken

[jeffs55]

I have an idea. Why don't you use something else to flatten  the back of your tools? A piece of sandpaper on any flat surface would/ should suffice. Is there a need to flatten your tools more than once? Then again, who said that the side of the stone is exactly flat? If it is "flat enough" then ye olde sandpaper on glass should be more than adequate. Once flattened, the honing wheel should be all you need to keep your tools adequately sharp. How much sharper than shaving individual whiskers do you need it to be? Excellent work on your site.

[bulerias1981]

Jeffs55,

It's not that I want the side of the stone flat, I just want it to be able to cut again.. it's basically either clogged and/or too dull to cut.

[SharpenADullWitt]

You do flatten more then once, as your end wears down. 
Pretty sure if was a Jeff Farris recommendation, to flatten your tools, quickly, on the side of the stone.  Interested in their response.

[Ken S]

I have found using the side of the wheel is useful for some flattening operations. The example which comes to mind is a nice old Buck chisel. This 3/8" bevel chisel has a nice balance and feel. Unfortunately, it also had a belly (The back was not flat' it protruded in the middle of the length.) Flattening the belly was no faster using the Tormek than if I had used a water stone or abrasive paper and glass. The difference was that I was able to do the job with the side of the Tormek wheel without pain in my hands.

I still prefer to do the final flattening and polishing stages with a water stone, however, the Tormek is a great help with the initial hard work.

With a plane blade, one can use David Charlesworth's "ruler trick", using a thin rule as a shim to create a small secondary plane along the tip of the back of the blade. This is considerably less work, but must be repeated as the blade wears.

With a chisel, the entire back should be flattened. It is not necessary to bring the entire back to a high polish, but generally enough of the back is polished so that further polishing is not necessary for a very long time, if ever.

John, it is important to keep the side of the wheel in good cutting order. Do continue your search for an answer. I hope Tormek support can assist you.

Ken

[Ken S]

John,

I found this while searching the site.  It does not pertain directly to your situation, but might help prevent or lessen the problem in the future. The quote is from Jeff Farris.

If the staining is from steel particles, are you using a magnet taped on to your water trough? A round magnet approximately 3/4? (19mm) taped on the outside of the trough will catch the steel grindings and keep them away from your grinding wheel.

Ken

Re: Mildew on Sides of Grinding Wheel
« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2011, 11:06:41 pm »
Quote
Paul, you've listed several excellent reasons NOT to use chloride bleach. That said, I'm not sure it would work, even if it would not cause other problems. I doubt the black stain you're seeing is mildew. It is much more likely to be cut steel particles that are staining the stone. Clean it up with the coarse side of the stone grader.

[grepper]

If by "shmutz" you mean steel embedded in the wheel, I doubt that a brush or anything like that would do much.  Sandpaper might work, but you may need to lightly dress the wheel with something like:
http://www.amazon.com/Commando-Grinding-Dresser-Diamond-Deburring/dp/B002KNOK9W

[Ken S]

John, please see my last post regarding the side started by Elden. (topic directly below this one.

Ken

[grepper]

Good memory there Ken.   Cool you remembered that.  That would be perfect.

If the wheel is not too badly gunked up, you might be able to do a light dressing freehand.  Just enough to get it cutting well again.

[bulerias1981]

To answer your question about the magnets, I've always had 2x 25mm rare earth magnets tape to the side of the trough since the beginning. But after years of use, the side of the wheel is dull and does not cut. It is interesting that they recommend the side of the wheel to flatten chisels and plane blades, but do not mention how to maintain it after some use. We'll see. The dressing wheel is one option.

-John Vergara
www.johnvergaramusic.com

[jeffs55]

If you had a lathe and could chuck the grinding stone and then put the diamond dresser in the tool holder you would have it made. Maybe you could pull it off by somehow chucking the stone in a drill press and then using pressure lower the stone onto a lazy susan bearing and then use the dressing stone. The lazy susan bearing is to allow the grinding stone to revolve and also be supported. A variable speed drill press would be most desirable. I still recommend another method as the stones are not cheap and you are wearing it out in two planes now. As a final word, check this out:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phL4suPO42Q

[Ken S]

If you don't happen to have a machine shop at home, clamping a piece of scrap wood onto the Torlock jig as shown in the photographs will give you a solid platform to use the diamond T dresser on the side of your wheel. Begin with a very light cut.

Ken