Replacement part compatibility between Supergrind 2000 and T-7

[RCowie]

I inherited a Supergrind 2000 and found the grinding wheel was slightly bent which makes for uneven sharpening due to a wobbly stone. SO, I need to replace the driveshaft and it looks like I need a new stone too.
My question is, are the replacement parts for the new T-7 compatible with the older model Supergrind? I have all the jigs and so forth so if I can maintain this sharpener, which I use mainly for knives and other household items, that would be better.

[Herman Trivilino]

Yes, everything that fits the older SuperGrind 2000 also fits the newer T-7.  In essence you can take an older SuperGrind 2000 and update it to a T-7 by upgrading parts and jigs.

The grindstone is one of the more expensive parts to replace, so I would not be so quick to assume it needs replacing.  When my wobble was due to a bent main shaft I saw the honing wheel also wobble in sync.  This is an easy fix.  Just get the MSK-250.

http://tormek.com/international/en/spare-parts/shafts/msk-250-stainless-steel-shaft/

Take care when removing the old main shaft.  I broke my grindstone doing it!  Read about it here: http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=929.msg2133#msg2133

Once you install the new main shaft you should be able to true your existing grindstone and you'll be good to go.

There are other upgrades you might want to consider, too.

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Ron.

One of the admirable parts of the Tormek design philosophy is being able to use the latest improvements on older machines.  You should have no problem.

I would do some testing before replacing your grinding wheel.  New wheels are costly.  Have you dressed your wheel with the diamond dresser?  (Take light cuts.)

Before I would replace the wheel, I would replace the shaft with the new (and really improved) EXYlock shaft.  The kit includes new nylon bushings.  The new shafts are well machined from stainless steel and make removing the wheel a snap (if you bother to read the directions).  A new shaft costs about half the price of a replacement wheel.

I would start with the least costly and move up only if needed.

1) Try loosening the wheel, turning it ninety degrees on the shaft.  Jeff Farris has written about finding "the sweet spot" this way.

2) Dress the wheel edge. (The sides aren't important.)

If these don't work, consider purchasing a new upgraded shaft.  Installing one is not difficult.  I did that with my first Tormek.

Before purchasing a new wheel, post again.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Ken

[Jeff Farris]

Ron,

Everything is compatible, but...you may not have as much of a problem as you think.

Your most likely problem is simply a stone that has worn unevenly. Get the diamond truing tool and true the stone before you spend for a new shaft and grindstone.

Check that the main shaft plastic bushings are in place and not overly worn. The shaft should be smooth where it goes through the bushings. If you find it is corroded and the bushings are worn, then you will need to replace the shaft.