Advice: How to Repair SG-250 Wheel Contaminated with Aluminium

[BrightonWorkbench]

Hi All,

This is my first post.

I accidentally contaminated a wheel (SG-250) with what I think is aluminium. I was using using a jig (SVD-110) and it slipped onto the stone's suface whilst I was grinding (see pics). 

How should I repair the stone? 

I have the diamond truing tool (TT-50). I was just going to use that to remove a layer from the stone until the stone looked free from the aluminium specs. Does that sound appropriate? Is there any other action to take? (aside from making sure the tool rest is tight enough in the future!)

Thanks in advance for any contributions!

Tormek Supergrind 2000 w/SG-250 Stone

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, BW.

I would carefully use your TT-50 truing tool. Take very light cuts, just a fraction of a number on the microadjust nut. (If your support bar predates the threaded microadjust nut, just adjust very carefully. A new threaded microadjust US-105 universal support bar would be a useful addition to your want list.)

Once you have your grinding wheel cleared, use the coarse edge of your stone grader to create a slight radius on both corners of your grinding wheel. Incidentally, worst case scenario, the diamond cluster of the TT-50 is available as a spare part and very easy to install. The cost is about a third the cost of a new grinding wheel. This is for information only; I doubt you will need this.

Good luck and keep us posted. I would leave your SVD-110 as is to remind you to be careful. I speak from experience. My former workshop was the garage of a house with no basement. It was overstuffed with junk. One day I lost my balance and my eyeglasses hit the concrete floor. I left the slightly abraded frame as is as a reminder to be careful.

Welcome to the club......

Ken

PS I am emailing Sebastien and Wolfgang suggesting they include how to clean aluminum from the grinding wheel is an upcoming video. If, by chance, you have not watched Tormek's online class videos, I recommend them highly.

[RichColvin]

Anthony,

I don't think I would worry about it.  I doubt that the amount of aluminum you show will impact the sharpening process measurably.  If it were my grindstone, I might freshen the surface using the TT-50 as usual, and proceed to sharpen as before. 

Rich

[3D Anvil]

I agree with Rich.  The abrasive in the stone is actually aluminum oxide.  The aluminum residue on the stone is too soft to have an impact on sharpening.  If it bothers you, the first thing I'd try is the coarse side of the stone grader.

[John_B]

I would follow Ken's advice if you have not trued your stone in a while. If it is running true the grader will work as well.

[sharpening_weasel]

As a sidenote- I think that might be zinc, which is what most of the tormek jigs are made of (I believe.)

[RickKrung]

As a sidenote- I think that might be zinc, which is what most of the tormek jigs are made of (I believe.)

You may be right, and I wondered about that.  But...  it may be that the CAST jigs are zinc and the other accessories, particularly the platforms are aluminum.  I've machined many of the platforms and a little on the SVM knife jigs and while they are not hugely different, there is a difference and my sense is the platforms are aluminum.  Tormek support has been exceedingly quiet about construction details, but if interested, an email there might reveal. 

I doubt it matters, however, as they are both soft and clog the grinding surfaces similarly and the solutions, as suggested, are likely the same. 

Rick

[Herman Trivilino]

Just continue to use your Tormek as usual. That little bit of zinc or aluminum won't hurt anything and will eventually be removed as you sharpen your tools, grade the grindstone, and true the grindstone.

[BrightonWorkbench]

Thanks for the replies All! It's really appreciated.

I trued the wheel as per Ken's instructions and everything is sharpening as usual.

Thanks again.