Tormek Tips Tricks and Techniques Beginners Start Here!

[Erivan]

@ Ken S,



I got (once again) a big smile on my old mug reading your post.

I'll be doing as you wrote and keep learning. I'm already asking friends if they need some knife sharpening service, as my spouse is very much into things like sustainable economy and "buy local". She keeps telling I could even learn better and make a job of it...

Thanks for all,

Rgds

[GenethedogK9]

I am a newbie,  Got my T8 about a month age. I have been grinding all of my hand tools to the correct angle. While working on the iron for my #6 plane, I looked down and saw all this blood on the paper towel, I had been using to wipe the water off of the blade. It was a very small cut that I didn't even feel. Damn these tools are sharp. While there is a learning curve to the Tormek. I am impressed with the results. 

My name is Tom ( Gene is the name of my dog )

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Gene and Tom.

You are learning what Tormek sharp can be, a very good way to begin. Now you have a good goal.

Do keep us posted!

Ken

[Shiyo]

First of all, I appreciate being a part of the Tormek community. Its quite exciting for me to be able to reach out to specialized individuals for advice and direction. I never really thought about learning how to use the T-8 by sharpening a chisel, but it looks like I should try it. ultimately I have joined this to learn, and respond to others and to make sharpening an easier and more enjoyable experience.

[Shiyo]

I have been sharpening on japanese whet stones, which I enjoy doing, but Iv invested in the T-8 because it can be more precise an easy in so many ways. But one of my initial quetions is what is the difference between stropping compounds that come from a "tube" or just the "brick" form? how much of a difference does it make? and how difficult is it to switch the compound levels to the same wheel?

[John_B]

I have been sharpening on japanese whet stones, which I enjoy doing, but Iv invested in the T-8 because it can be more precise an easy in so many ways. But one of my initial quetions is what is the difference between stropping compounds that come from a "tube" or just the "brick" form? how much of a difference does it make? and how difficult is it to switch the compound levels to the same wheel?

When you use the Japanese stone good results can be obtained by using a finer compound than the Tormek paste which ranges from 2.5 - 5 microns.

It is not recommended to switch compounds on one wheel. It is not possible to clean one compound off before switching and you will get cross contamination reducing the effectiveness of your finer compound. Separate wheels for each compound used is best. Here is a discussion on the subject.

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3385.0

[Ken S]

Shiyo,

I think the difference between tube and brick honing compounds is primarily grit size. The Tormek PA-70 is designed to be an all around compound. As such, it is quite versatile. Are there better compounds designed for special jobs?  Probably so.

A bench chisel is the most basic edge I can imagine. It is single bevel, straight, and large enough to be easily observed. I think it is the easiest way to learn a lot about the Tormek, from becoming familiar with the feel and sound of grinding, to using the stone grader, to learning the effect of different wheel coarseness, to using the truing tool and learning what sharp is. In my opinion, the Tormek is a chisel sharpener which also works with knives.

John, like the kenjig, the Tormek paste predates the SJ and other compounds. Again, I do not expect any productto be "the best" at all things.

Ken

[Shiyo]

That all makes sense. Thank you very much. I am practicing with some old chisels, but ultimately im hoping to be able to do knifes with the T8. Also im debating wether to get the frontal vertical base. Although im relatively new to using the T8 it seems like it takes too much material off knives while going against. When I put the support bar on the lower spot to grind away from the edge it seems very difficult. This could be all part of the "learning curve" but it seems that "frontal vertical base" that Vadim uses should be the way to go. I hope im explaining this in a way that makes sense. I guess my question is; what are your thoughts on purchasing that part?

Thanks again, this is all so helpful and exciting!

[John_B]

That all makes sense. Thank you very much. I am practicing with some old chisels, but ultimately im hoping to be able to do knifes with the T8. Also im debating wether to get the frontal vertical base. Although im relatively new to using the T8 it seems like it takes too much material off knives while going against. When I put the support bar on the lower spot to grind away from the edge it seems very difficult. This could be all part of the "learning curve" but it seems that "frontal vertical base" that Vadim uses should be the way to go. I hope im explaining this in a way that makes sense. I guess my question is; what are your thoughts on purchasing that part?

Thanks again, this is all so helpful and exciting!

When you grind with the wheel rotating away from you you will get a bigger burr that takes more effort to properly remove. I sharpen most things with the wheel coming towards me and have not had issues with it removing too much material. Some well known sharpeners also use the wheel going away and swear by it. It is all your choice. I have the FVB and find it invaluable for burr removal on the leather wheel and for sharpening some blades with the wheel rotating away.

[Shiyo]

Thanks for the info. I guess ultimately having the FVB makes it more versatile anyway. So ill probably end up getting it. One question when using the honing wheel: the first time I used it I followed the directions on how much oil to put before the white compound that comes with the Tormek. How do i know when to add more of the compound? the last time I did it I added what I though was a good amount, but when I do the honing there is quite a lot of white compound that comes off. Is that normal? Thanks for all the help!

[Ken S]

Normally we just add oil to the leather wheel before the first use. It prepares the surface to not absorb most of the honing compound. I have never added oil after the first use.

Ken

[Shiyo]

Yes, I havent added oil. just the compound. But when I use the leather wheel with the compound some comes off. That is normal ? and i just wipe it off the blade?

[Shiyo]

What i mean to say is Yes, I have added the oil. Before the put the compound. Just as directed. But its curious that bits of the white compound fly off. Maybe I add too much?

[Ken S]

Grant,
Several years ago, a staff member of the US Tormek importer told me that putting oil on a new leather honing wheel was unnecessary, as one of the ingredients in the honing compound was oil. He meant well, but was mistaken. Without the initial oil, as you found, you get flakes. You may not have enough oil on your leather wheel. Add just a little and see if that solves your problems.
Today's difficulties will diminish as you use your Tormek.
Enjoy your Tormek and keep posting.
Ken

[Elden]

Adding a link to truing procedures for the TT-50 contained in an excellent thread.

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3053.0