Tormek Tips Tricks and Techniques Beginners Start Here!

[Ken S]

First: what are CBN grinding wheels?

Second: I read that diamond grinding wheels can also be used dry, but how long do they last? With water, approximately, how many sharpenings can they withstand?

Third: is there a coarser grinding wheel (stone or diamond) that allows you to make the first roughing (especially when the blade is very damaged) and allow the finer ones to last longer?

CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) wheels are made of CBN, the second hardest material.Only diamond is harder. Both diamond and CBN wheels are considered superabrasives and generally. ut faster and harder steel than conventionalgrinding wheels. While not identical, they can usually be used interchangeably. Tormek recommends startng with the SG grinding wheel.


In imy,opinion, neither diamond or CBN wheels should be used dry. In addition to keeping the toolsrust free, ACC solution prevents grinding dust, runs cooler, and keeps the grinding wheel much cleaner. How long weither diamond or CBN wheels last is largely determined by careful use (light pressure whn grinding).

The coarsest diamnd wheel is the DC-250. the coarsest regular wheel is the SB-250 blackstone. Neither of these wheels is designed for a fine, smooth cut. The finst cut diamond wheel is the DE-250. The finst cut regular wheel is the SJ-4000 Japanese wheel, followed by the SG-250 graded fine.

I suggest you check on the Tormek website (tormek.com). The xcellnt handbok is available ias a free download in sixteen different languages when you register your Tormek.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Thank you and have a good continuation of the evening.

[geppetto425@gmail.com]

Took me 10 mins to figure out how to post! If this isn't the right forum I'm sorry. This site is difficult to navigate
So I have an older Tormek Super Grind 2000. I want to replace the smaller rubber wheel with a CBC 80 grit, and keep the larger white dressing wheel for now. I just need a source for a wheel that someone could recommend. I want to make sure it will fit!
I'd send don't photos but it says they're too large.... Sheesh

[RickKrung]

Hopefully, with some time you'll find the site easier to navigate.  As far as where to post it, you are pretty close.  "General Tormek Questions" would be where I would put it.  One level higher than this subfolder ("Tips and Tricks...").  I know nothing about the 2000 so I won't try to help with your primary question.  Spend some time exploring the different topic specific subforums to get a feel for the types of things discussed in each.  You'll get the hang of it. 

As for picture sizes, given that most photos we take these days are high in pixel count, they are typically several MegaBytes in file size and LOTS of pixels.  For example, my phone take images with 3042 x 4032 pixels and are about 8 MB.  Many forums restrict the file size so as to not overload storage, etc.  I find it most convenient to reduce the pixel size from the native size to 640 x 480, which on this forum display large but do not spill over the width of the frame in which messages are displayed.  I use third-party utility programs to do that downsizing.  I have no idea how you take photos or what utilities you might have for reducing file size / pixel density, so if you are not familiar with this sort of thing, is there anyone you know that can assist you? 

This photo is 640x480 and 117 KB in file size.  Shown immediately below it has been "inserted" into the text and takes up about half of the window width on my display.  Further down, is the "thumbnail" as photos will be shown that have been uploaded but not "inserted".  If your photo is much larger, viewers may have to scroll over to see all of the content.

Rick

You cannot view this attachment.

[DaveStonier]

Sorry if this has been asked, many times, before! I have a bowl gouge with a 30 degree bevel (it's def a BG!) I will re-grind most probably very soon but for now, how do I set the jig on my T8 to sharpen this, please? Does not appear to be a setting for this. I presume I cannot treat it as a spindle gouge?

[Andyr36]

Hi all. I'm new here. I've just been given a Supergrind 2000 that is in very good condition with a new SG 250 wheel.The machine did not come with and jigs or a manual. I intend on using the machine regularly in my profession once I've learned how. Does anyone know where I might be able to download a manual. I plan to purchase the booklet. The only jig I will need to start is for chisels and plane blades. In addition I'm guessing I should have the truing and grading jigs. Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions. Andy R.

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Andy.

If you use tormek.com to the register your Tormek, you can access and download the latest online edition of the handbook at no cost. I downloaded it onto my ipad and refer to it often.

I would also highly recommend the Tormek online classes on Tormek's youtube channel. They are solid information well produced.

Yes, you will want the latest TT-50 truing tool and the Stone Grader. If your universal support does not have the threaded leg and Microadjust, you will want one. It makes truing your grinding wheel much easier.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[PJHAGEMAN]

Thinking of buying the T8 bundle and K-123.  Have watched numerous videos and wonder:
1) Is there point in getting diamond stone(s)? One thing important to me: repeatability.  From my Lean Six Sigma background, I should eliminate variability to the extent possible.   A diamond wheel would not wear away like a stone wheel.
2) How often do you have to dress a stone wheel?
3) Is an attachment necessary to accurately dress a stone wheel?
4) Knives are my primary interest - all sorts: Nakiri, Santoku, German makes, filet, to name a few; what wheels and attachments would be best to have on hand?
6) Tip-to-heel, or heal to tip: videos show both techniques.  Which/when?  Follow on: if set up for 15 degree, the tip is not 15 degree because blade contact with the stone moves diametrically toward the vertical (90 degrees).  Is this a practical issue of concern?
5) What about stropping?
6) I want the sharpest, consistant practical edge for all knives.

Have I worn out my welcome?

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Philip. No, you have not worn out your welcome. 

Please keep in mind that these thoughts are my opinion. Others on the forum probably have equally valid other opinions. I would start with just the SG-250 grinding wheel. It  comes with the T8 Original, as does the TT-50 truing tool and stone grader. The SG-250 has been serving Tormek knife sharpeners well for decades. Using the stone grader, it is not necessary to purchase multiple grinding wheels. I am not familiar with Six Sigma; however, with kitchen knives, the grinding wheel wears very slowly. Once you become proficient, wheel wear, truing and dressing is not a big deal. (In my opinion, things like wheel wear, truing and dressing only became magnified when vendors, including Tormek, started selling other wheels.)

I suggest you start by learning the traditional three step Tormek technique as demonstrated in the online classes. Eventually, you may want to try incorporating other ideas into your technique. Wait until your basic technique is solid.

Keep us posted.

Ken

PS You will get more replies by posting in the knife sharpening sub forum.

[tgbto]

Hello Philip,

In terms of tools, I would advise the following :
 - A KJ-45 knife jig
 - A KS-123 angle setter, as you mention, so wheel diameter will not be an issue
 - A USB-420 long support bar. It is not only useful for long knives, but also for medium knives where you want some leeway in terms of clamping position in the jig
 - A MB-102 that will allow you to control the angle easily when honing (or grinding edge trailing, more on that further down)
 - If you want to refine the edge, or make it coarser, two (non Tormek) diamond plates for grading the SG wheel coarse or fine, they will help grade the stone faster, while staying true longer than when using the SP-650. You will use the SE-77 tool that comes with the Tormek for this. The longer the plates the better.

Regarding heel to tip or tip to heel, definitely heel to tip. You need control when dealing with the tip and you will notice quickly that control is harder to get when you're just laying the knife down on the stone. As for the change of angle at the tip, there is no short answer : if you care about looks, you'll probably let the contact point ride up the wheel on most knives, if you want a consistent angle you will rotate the jig so the tip stays in the same place. Practice (and a sharpie) will help you chose your course of action for every knife. You won't get "six sigma", hardware-constrained repeatability for this.

Now regarding the diamond stone, I have two of them and never use them for knives. I don't like the feedback compared to the SG wheel, the scratch pattern is not as even, and they require more fussing around than the Sg stone (they are more fragile, and ACC Anticorrosion concentrate is almost mandatory). Diamond stones shine in my opinion for carbide tools or very hard steels, or when a flat grind is mandatory.

If by stropping you mean stropping on a separate leather strop after honing, it will most probably increase sharpness (if done properly) for the first few hours or the first few strokes. Only you can tell if that is important to you, I personally aim for edge retention rather than initial sharpness. And my experience is that an ungraded SG-250 followed by careful honing are the best time/performance compromise.

[BPalv]

Thinking of buying the T8 bundle and K-123.  Have watched numerous videos and wonder:
1) Is there point in getting diamond stone(s)? One thing important to me: repeatability.  From my Lean Six Sigma background, I should eliminate variability to the extent possible.   A diamond wheel would not wear away like a stone wheel.
2) How often do you have to dress a stone wheel?
3) Is an attachment necessary to accurately dress a stone wheel?
4) Knives are my primary interest - all sorts: Nakiri, Santoku, German makes, filet, to name a few; what wheels and attachments would be best to have on hand?
6) Tip-to-heel, or heal to tip: videos show both techniques.  Which/when?  Follow on: if set up for 15 degree, the tip is not 15 degree because blade contact with the stone moves diametrically toward the vertical (90 degrees).  Is this a practical issue of concern?
5) What about stropping?
6) I want the sharpest, consistant practical edge for all knives.

Have I worn out my welcome?

PJ,
Welcome to the forum!  Actually I'm newer than you...
It depends on how often and what you use your T8 for.  It's not a big deal once you get the hang of it.
I use several techniques for stropping but my goto is a Rikon 1x30 with a leather belt.  I use it loaded with Tormek paste for most.  For supersteels and high polish I use diamond paste.  Polycrystalline for cutting, monocrystalline for polishing.
The thing that really opened my eyes to what works and what doesn't is a BESS Sharpness Tester.  You are able to test your techniques as you goto see what works and what doesn't.  It changed the way I go about stropping completely.
I sharpen most high end kitchen knives to under 100.  It's still a challenge to get knives that sharp with this setup.  If you set up a low speed buffer with slotted Paper wheels and a forward vertical base for controlled angle sharpening you should have an easier time getting them under 100 with 50 (Gillette razor blade) attainable consistently.
For more information pick up the Knife De-burring book from Australian Knife Grinders.