Out of square edge

[mdelgado]

So in my effort to speed up the process, I ground one edge of a plane iron down too far.  Now the entire tool is out of square--extremely out of square.  I need suggestions on how to return it to square.  I don't mind spending a lot of time on it.  But if it requires me to manually press on various parts on the iron until it's square, I'm going to just throw the iron away.  I'll never have that sort of dexterity.  I was hoping that I could just regrind a new bevel at a slightly different angle.  In one of the YouTube videos, I saw a guy hit the blade with an axe several times and he got his iron back to square (or at least it was straight).  Any suggestions would be helpful. 

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum.  When you say your plane iron is out of square, I assume you mean that if you place a square on one side, the cutting edge is not square.  Is this so?

If so, you can use the square to mark a line square close to the edge.  Use a sharpie or similar marker.  Usually it is recommended to grind the edge off flat to get you back into square.  Use the line as a reference.  As you grind, you should get closer to square.

Once you are square again, watch Jeff's chisel sharpening videos.  Then work slowly and re establish the iron's bevel.  Take your time, inspecting the edge frequently.  Use your square.  (Make sure your square is indeed square.)

All too often new users begin using their Tormeks when they are impatient to begin a project with the tools.  It is better to become fluent with your new Tormek when you are not in a hurry.

By the way, a quality replacement blade for your plane can easily run around thirty dollars.  It is well worth your time to salvage the edge on your present blade.  Use this valuable time as part of your sharpening education.  It will stand by you well for many years.

Good luck, and keep us posted.  No one comes out of the womb Tormek fluent.

Ken

[mdelgado]

When regrinding the bevel, should I pay special attention to the high spots?  Do I need to apply pressure to those spots?  Or should I just grind equally across the entire bevel?  I have a feeling that I will be at this for hours.  But, as you say, it's an important introduction to using this tool.  Thx.

[Ken S]

Do you have a chisel you could sharpen?  A chisel in the half to one inch range is a good basic starting tool.  if you do, watch Jeff's videos.  Here is the link:

http://www.sharptoolsusa.com/demo.php

Before you put the edge to the stone,  follow the directions in Jeff's videos to make sure your stone is properly dressed.

I think a plane iron is slightly more complicated to sharpen than a chisel.  Whether you are using a chisel (highly recommended) or a plane iron, take the time to make sure it is seated squarely in the SE-76 jig.  Set the projection length from the square edge jig as shown in Jeff's videos.  Don't be in a hurry.  Take several passes and check your work.  Where you are grinding (the shiny part) should be square.  If you are getting better, keep going.  If not, regroup and read the book and/or watch the videos again.

Expect the procedure to take a little longer the first few times.  Very shortly, if you work attentively, you should be able to resharpen chisels and plane irons in just a few minutes.

There is no substitute for actually doing it.  Be patient, you will soon be proficient.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

But if it requires me to manually press on various parts on the iron until it's square, I'm going to just throw the iron away.  I'll never have that sort of dexterity. 

Like any skill, you can learn it.  Here's the thing.  If you start with a plane iron or chisel that needs some sharpening, perhaps just a bit of sharpening, and you sharpen it, there's a good chance it'll be out of square when you're done.

You have to pay attention and keep checking that the edge is square.  Like any skill, it takes practice to develop.  The Tormek is a machine meant to be used by craftsmen.  And all craftsmen know that with skill develops with practice and patience.

A good craftsman makes it look easy and simple.  When I buy a new chisel the first thing I do is flatten the back and put on a proper edge. 

[Ken S]

Herman makes some excellent points.  I had not thought of starting with a chisel or plane iron which needed only minimal sharpening.  I would second Herman's idea. 

One of the difficulties of this kind of forum is we rarely know how much background another poster has.  Herman worked for a while as a carpenter.  I never did that, but I have been sharpening things sporadically since about 1960.  (After flattening and sharpening a set of nicked chisels with oilstones, one really appreciates the Tormek!)

Starting with a difficult tool is like learning to drive stick shift with a bad clutch.  Learn in little pieces, and be repetitive.  Jeff's videos are a real help.  Go slow, but keep going.  Don't be afraid to ask questions.  Do spend time with your new Tormek.  Confidence and manual dexterity will come.  And, they will come sooner than you now think probable.

Thirty years ago, I purchased a wooden view camera.  (Those are the kind of cameras Ansel Adams used, with the bellows and focusing cloth.)  Initial results were very discouraging.  Among other things, I had difficulty seeing with it.  As I became fluent with it, it spoiled me for hand cameras.  It was remarkably flexible in skilled hands.  You can acquire those skilled hands with your Tormek. 

Ken

Ken

[Ken S]

Hi, mdelgado......How is your sharpening going?  Progress?

Ken

[mdelgado]

Well, I'm frustrated.  After working on the long end (and many hours later), I finally evened it out. (Thanks for the tips, Jeff.)  So, I went to the finer grade.  No problems there.  Went over to the leather honing wheel--switched from vertical to horizontal, as required.  Set the angle using the angle master.  Unfortunately, the square edge jig scrapes against the threads of the tool support, so I can't move the blade back and forth.  I tried moving the blade up and down in the jig, but it still scrapes, thus preventing me from honing the tool.  I imagine that I can do this freehand on the wheel, but this seems like too ridiculous a design error.  I must be doing something wrong.  My bench stones are starting to look very enticing...

[Ken S]

Did you re set the angle master to the diameter of the leather honing wheel?

Something is way out of kilter.  Have you watched Jeff's videos at sharptoolsusa.com?  if you have, perhaps more than once, and you are still having the problems, you might want to talk with your dealer.  Perhaps he could put you in contact with the person who does the demos at his store.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[Jeff Farris]

While I agree with Ken that something seems out of whack (did you reset the wheel diameter?), don't fear freehand honing. I rarely use the jig...mostly when I'm showing someone how to do it the "factory approved" way.  In my home shop, it's pretty much always freehand.  The wheel is not aggressive enough to remove any material.  The only mistake is to bring your angle up too steep. Don't do that, and you'll do fine.

[dbpianos]

Remember that the correct honing angle is achieved by a combination of two adjustments - the distance of the tool rest from the wheel and the distance of the blade edge from the clamping part of the jig. It sounds to me as though you need to pull the tool rest out further and compensate by adjusting the blade in the jig (or it may be the other way round, depending on where the clash is happening).

David