Square edge jig doesn't tighten on craftsman plane iron

[Adam D]

I just got my Tormek Ultimate kit and was eager to start sharpening. Realizing that there might be a bit of a learning curve, I wanted to start on a plane iron I didn't really care about. I decided to try to resurrect an old craftsman jack plane that a friend had given me. ...I couldn't get the square edge jig to hold it! With the jig completely bottomed out (completely compressing the springs) the iron still slid freely. I resolved the issue by wrapping the iron in thick paper, but I didn't expect to have to jury rig a $1200 machine  .

I tried other plane irons, and luckily, this is the only iron I own that's too thin to be held by the square edge jig. Has anyone else had this problem?

Everything else about the machine is great so far 

[Ken S]

Hi, Adam.  Welcome to the forum.  You post an interesting question.  I checked my SE-76 holding jig with some feeler gages.  Something around .060 starts to hold when clamped down.  I suspect the original Swedish metric objective was 1.5mm.

The blade of one of my old Stanley block planes measures .075 and clamps easily.  In an ideal world  your blade should as well. Given that premium replacement blades like the Hock blades are noticeably thicker, the problem may actually be that your iron is too thin.

For $1200, one might think the shims might have been included........

Ken

[Adam D]

I just checked mine, and mine starts to catch at .073. My craftsman iron is about .064.  Assuming our gauges are accurate (and our numbers are comparable) it sounds like yours would BARELY grab it. In that case, manufacturing tolerances left me with a blem 

I can lift my Veritas Mk.II jig with a .013 feeler clamped in it. Granted, there would be too much flex to sharpen a tool that thin, but I'll never have slip issues with that jig. Any idea what the advantage is of designing the jig such that "fully closed" has a .073 gap?

[Ken S]

Interesting problem, Adam.  I wonder if your jig might have a high spot.  If so, a few well placed strikes with a file should correct the problem.

I know; for $1200 you shouldn't need to use a file.  If I had bought the unit used, that;s what I would do.  Since you bought it new, I would suggest bringing the jig and your feeler gages to the dealer and comparing it with other SE-76 jigs.  If that isn't practical you still have your file or shims.

I have an older Veritas jig.  It works well, although your newer model works much better. 

I have no clue as to why the design grabs at such a thick point.  I do know that this forum is read by the factory people in Sweden.  Perhaps they might post the engineering spec for the grab thickness.

Hoping to hear more,

Ken